Woke up at 06:00, breakfast at 07:00 then walk to the tour place at 08:00. It was a bit cloudy but around 12C.
Guy drove us to the harbour where we stood with a few people waiting to get on the boat, constantly swatting mosquitoes. Bastards.
Only 6 people on the boat, an American woman and her granddaughter, and a Danish couple.
The boat was small but comfortable - the seats were like aircraft seats but larger. I've been on a few similar boat trips and this was the most comfortable by far, the cabin was heated as well.
We headed out of the harbour into the sea filled with icebergs.
There weren't many icebergs close to the shore where the captain took us, so we picked up speed and were zipping along. Standing in the shelter of the cabin at the back was fine, but if I stepped to the side I was hit with a blast of icy air.
After a couple of minutes we came to a huge number of icebergs, ranging in size from tiny chunks to some the size of several houses, some the size of several football fields.
The boat slowed and we passed by dozens of them, zig-zagging between them - an amazing experience to be so close to them, all different shapes, and some pure white, some with pale blue ice and some with dirty brown areas. Occasionally there would be a thump as the boat hit a small one.
Truly beautiful and amazing.
We picked up speed again as the ice cleared and turned into a bay where there was a small settlement of 25 - 30 people, called Oqaatsut.
I can't comprehend why someone would choose to live in such an isolated place.
Headed back out, past a massive iceberg, then carried on up the coast, fewer icebergs around. I'm saying icebergs a lot.
Turned into another bay and stopped the boat for a cup of tea. There was a small house on a hill, apparently a holiday home. Talk about getting away from it all.
Back out into the sea, more you-know-whats, slowed down again to navigate around them. Saw a couple of small waterfalls, and a seal that quickly submerged as we approached.
At a couple of spots the guide pointed out the ice cap in the distance, about 20km from where we were.
Pretty soon we were approaching the glacier and encountered more thingys, slowed down to dodge them, then slowed to a crawl as the captain got closer, crunching over the ice and pushing some of the smaller ibs out of the way. He killed the engine and we sat there for about an hour, watching as chunks of ice occasionally fell off the glacier followed by the sound, like thunder.
The guide gave everyone a big roll each and we sat and ate in silence, the sun had come out and it was quite warm.
Easily the best lunch venue I've ever been to.
Another small boat arrived but stayed behind us so we had an uninterrupted view of the glacier.
We would drift around and the captain would swing us round so that we were always looking at the glacier.
There is actually a lodge there where you can stay, 15 rooms, some even have a flushing toilet (the standard ones have a bucket). I don't know the cost of these though.
Turned around and went back to the town, passing the icebergs, just marveling at the views.
The boat stopped near one of the waterfalls, which was also where a lot of sea birds were nesting.
Carried on a bit further to another waterfall, the guide said the water is special and gives you longer life. I believed her.
The captain took the boat right up to the waterfall and the guide leaned dangerously over the front and filled some cups with the water cascading down the rock, and we all drank some. If I die within the next few years I'll sue.
It was pretty good though, both the water and the waterfall.
Kept going, back to the harbour, then the captain said something in Danish and up ahead were 2 whales, I just caught a glimpse before they disappeared under the water.
About 5 minutes later we saw the most amazing iceberg - a huge one with a hole through it, shaped like a cathedral. The captain took us close to it and went around so we could take photos. Even the guide was taking photos so it must have been good.
Back to the harbour, an unforgettable day.
Got dropped off at the tour place and walked back to the hotel.
Later on went to a new restaurant, I had salmon, Song had a musk ox pattie, like a burger. They didn't have local beer so I didn't bother.
My salmon was OK, Song said her musk ox was OK. I tried some, it was a lot stronger and more gamey than the one I had the other day.
Back to the hotel for the last night.
So, what did I think of Greenland?
It really is an amazing place, I never tired of looking at the icebergs out of the hotel room. The Icefjiord was magnificent, a white alien landscape that was simply stunning. The highlight was the trip to the glacier today, moving through the water surrounded by the icebergs, every minute or so we'd say "look at that one!".
If you look at Ilulissat on a map, it looks extremely isolated and you'd think there was nothing here, and that it's not worth going. The reality is that while you'd struggle to find 5 star accommodation, it's not rough here. There are several hotels and restaurants that are very good, wifi in most of them, supermarkets, bars and cafes. The hikes were relatively easy, and there are plenty of tours that are worth taking. The weather was great, we had a few sunny days and even though the temperature was around 4-8C there were some days I was just wearing a t shirt.
The downside is that everything is very expensive. From the flight from Denmark (or Iceland), the accommodation, for which you have to pay extra on top of the room rate if there's more than one person, the food, and the tours. But I think if you're prepared for the cost, it's a once in a lifetime experience.
Back to civilisation tomorrow, 0700 flight to Copenhagen, stay in the airport hotel again for one night, then on to Paris.
