Day 13 - Kotor to Shkoder

Woke up to the alarm for the first time at 06:45, up to now we've just woken up naturally.
We're now half way through our trip.
Walked 10 minutes to the bus station, hoped to find a place to exchange some money to Albanian currency but it was a bit early. I'm not sure of the availability of ATMs in Albania.
The bus to Shkoder was a small one, half the size of the other coaches, and we were the only ones on it. The coach driver got off with a cigarette in his mouth so Song told him I have asthma, and I coughed for effect. I don't, but we didn't want him smoking for 4 hours in the small bus.
He put the radio on so we sat back and watched the scenery going by to some of our favourite Montenegren (Montenegroen?) tunes.
We travelled inland for a while, then hit the coast again, the road half way up the hill with more great views of the coast and out to sea, sun shining again.
Montenegro seemed a bit more prosperous than some of the other Balkan countries, probably because they are part of the European Union. I think it could be the next Croatia in terms of tourism. It certainly has the views, Kotor is a great little ancient town (although already pretty busy), and the weather we had was perfect.
The bus stopped at a big town (Budva) and 3 more people got on, spoiling our private tour.
The weather had been sunny, but it started to cloud over.
We drove out of Budva and it looked as if it is a major summer destination, lots of hotels and holiday homes, spas, beaches and lots more being built.
As we climbed, we saw a group of houses on a small island joined to the mainland by a causeway, very picturesque.
Turned inland again, driving around twisty roads through the hills, clouds covering the tops, looking as if it might rain.
Went through a tunnel for about 5 minutes, came out the other side into bright sunshine, not a cloud in the sky. I've no idea how that happened, it was like a different day. Remarkable.
The tree-covered hills were all around with some plains dotted with farms. I checked google maps, and we were heading inland around a lake rather than directly to Shkoder via the coast - obviously the route was more lucrative going via the main towns.
Passed through an area of marsh and wetlands with reeds, and small tributaries with boats moored, the area very green. Carried on around the lake, more pleasant scenery.
Pulled into the bus station in the capital, Podgorica, then left and drove around the still waters of the lake until we came to the border crossing into Albania.
We waited about an hour to get through - it looked exactly like you'd expect the border to Albania to look; unorganised queues of traffic, an unpaved road, and the guards in what were basically huts, people standing around smoking.
Finally through, and as we drove into the country there were 2 cows just walking in the road and sheep at the side of the road, just wandering around.
As we drove along, the houses were surprisingly nice - in good condition, pretty big.
Pulled into Shkoder, a typical city - lots of people, bad drivers, and a lot of people on bikes. The bus dropped us off, luckily outside a bank, so went to change money but were stopped by a security guard who wouldn't let us take our luggage in. There was also a guy with a metal detector, so it seems it's a bit dodgy here.
Albania is supposedly the poorest country in Europe, but from what we'd seen so far it was not as bad as Serbia or Bosnia. Lots of modern German cars in good condition, people smartly dressed and clean, well maintained buildings.
Not what we expected.
Walked about 30 minutes to the hotel - 1 of 2 listed on hotels.com in Shkoder that was supposed to be in the centre of town. They had zebra crossings but the traffic doesn't stop, so we had to wait for a gap in the traffic - not a lot of point in having them really. Even when we were on them the cars just kept going past.
The hotel was part of a service station so our faces dropped when we saw it, but it was actually good - decent sized room, King size bed, clean and modern bathroom and it also had a balcony overlooking a park. To be honest I think it's quite hard these days to get a bad hotel unless you just turn up somewhere without looking online first.
Settled down for a while, then walked back to the bus station to book tomorrow's tickets to a town where we would take a ferry up a gorge. The only problem was there was no ticket office. We asked a couple of young people but they didn't speak English, but some of their friends turned up, 3 teenage girls, one of whom did, and they very kindly offered to take us to where we could buy tickets. We ended up in a travel agents who called the owner of the ferry, spoke for a couple of minutes then said the owner would pick us up from our hotel in the morning and drive us there for 10 Euro. Er, OK. It was a bit informal, but the travel agent didn't want to take the money so I thought he's not trying to con us, should be ok. If he didn't turn up we could try a taxi, but there's one ferry that leaves at 09:00 so it would be tight.
Stopped off at another seafood restaurant where Song had squid (again) and I had fish (again). We usually try different things, but the meat all over the Balkans just doesn't look nice - very greasy and all fried. So it's seafood until we have more choice.
I also ordered a beer, just for a change.
My meal was decent, but Song's came out and was entree sized, so we also ordered extra vegetables.
Walked back to the hotel, couldn't find anywhere to buy some rolls for the trip tomorrow since we'd be leaving at 06:20 and would miss breakfast, so would just have to go hungry.
I asked the hotel to call the ferry owner to confirm he was going to pick us up, and as I was talking to him the agent called the hotel to confirm, so I felt happier we wouldn't be left stranded.
Watched TV, sleep, early start tomorrow.