Day 26 - Dubai to Melbourne

Slept well in our suite.
Checked out as late as we could because the flight wasn't until 01:35, then walked around the corner to a shopping mall. Walked out of the hotel into a sauna, a big difference from yesterday. We'd stayed at the same hotel in 2014 and walked past a building that still wasn't finished from last time.
The shopping mall had a bakery called Paul's, a French chain we like so headed there and had brunch. I had a camembert sandwich, Song had a tuna roll. With a coffee and bottle of water came to $49 - a bit pricey really.
Wandered around a bit more, thought to see a movie but there was nothing we fancied. The shopping mall just wasn't big enough so got the metro to the Dubai Mall, THE LARGEST SHOPPING MALL IN THE WORLD!
We went there last time - it has a dinosaur fossil, an ice skating rink, a waterfall, aquarium and watches that cost the same as a house - not just any house, but a house in Melbourne.
Had a wander and a sit down, just chilled out watching all the people. I have to say, most of the shops seemed to be empty of customers but full of staff. Song bought some shoes in a small shop that had 6 assistants.
Found another Paul's and had afternoon tea - a selection of canapes and small rolls and desserts.
Carried on marvelling at the extent of the place, then hopped back onto the metro to go back to the hotel to pick up the bags. We'd discovered that the metro went to the airport and was a lot cheaper than a cab so just did that. Had plenty of time, breezed through passport control and security and found another Paul's in the airport. Song had a salmon roll but I was a bit over their stuff and wasn't hungry so didn't bother.
Flight went surprisingly quickly considering it was 13 hours - I didn't sleep much but watched TV.
Got to Melbourne airport, and my passport couldn't be read by the machine. I tried it three times, then the woman who was there to help tried it three times but was then stumped and didn't know what to do so told me to join another queue, which took 20 minutes, which meant by the time I got through everyone had collected their bags and there was another 20 minute queue to get through customs, and another queue to get on the skybus and there weren't enough seats so I had to sit in the luggage area which was a bit undignified. On top of this the driver said there were delays and the trip would be a bit longer. Welcome home.
So that was it for our 2017 Balkans extravaganza. It went a lot more smoothly than I expected, especially the travel in Albania, Kosovo and Macedonia, all due to Song's research and planning.
The overall impression for me is that the Balkan landscape is stunning, views to rival Canada. But a lot of the places are poor and underdeveloped and in need of basic amenities. Most of the public toilets are the 'squat and drop' design and BYO toilet paper, and smoking in restaurants and cafes is still allowed.
I can't see us going back. The highlights for me I think were the drive from Dubrovnik to Kotor, Lake Koman and Lake Como, and I did like Ljubljana.
Next year we're thinking of a cruise around South East Asia or South America, or a foodie trip around Western France and Spain.
We think this was our last trip where we visit so many countries and hop on and off buses, and our last month-long trip, it's a bit exhausting. We stayed at 17 hotels over about 25 days.

Day 25 - Milan to Dubai

Woke up at 06:00, out at 06:55, too early for breakfast so walked to the train station in the pouring rain. Picked up a roll at the station then the fast train to the airport.
We had a 6 hour flight, then 1 hour at Doha, then a 1 hour flight to Dubai.
Flight from Doha to Dubai was delayed, they changed the plane which meant all the seat allocations were wrong so they had to tear up the boarding passes and issue new ones.
Flight was about 6 hours and uneventful, and I had the worst meal on a plane I can remember - very chewy beef that was luke warm in a terrible sauce with cold vegetables.
I'd tried to book the shuttle bus from the airport to the hotel but they didn't confirm, so weren't waiting. We got a taxi, a nice Lexus driven by a grumpy woman when we told her the name of the hotel because it wasn't far from the airport. It was just as well the bus wasn't there, it cost 3 times as much as the taxi.
When we got to the hotel I mentioned that we were expecting a pick up at the hotel and the guy was apologetic but said we didn't confirm. I nearly said that it was a bit hard to do at 30000 feet but didn't.
He said the only non smoking room had 2 single beds that he could push together. Not happy. We'd booked the room in February, and I asked what was the point of us booking specifically for a king size bed and non smoking room months in advance if, when we arrived, it wasn't available?
My mild annoyance worked and he upgraded us to a suite. So we had 2 toilets, a lounge with a tv, King size bed, another Tv in the bedroom, a kitchen and a huge bathroom. I should have complained at some of the other places.
Tomorrow is a wander around the Dubai shopping malls - just a day of relaxation before the flight home which leaves at 01:35.

Day 24 - Bellagio to Milan

Woke up at 07:00, miserable day again, cold and cloudy. Took one last look at the view over the lake, ferries criss-crossing the still water.
Quick breakfast then shuttle bus to the ferry, bought the ticket to Varenna. Got on the boat, showed the ticket and said 'Varenna?' and the guy clipped the ticket and the boat went to Cadenabbia. Had to go back to Bellagio and wait for the next ferry to Varenna. Very pissed off, I'd shown the ticket, asked to make sure, and the guy either didn't care or was an idiot.
Ran round to the other jetty and just managed to get the right boat this time.
Quick jog up to the train station and met all the people who got on the correct boat. Ticket office was shut because of a public holiday, so hoped to get on the right train and bought the ticket on board, had to wait 30 minutes though.
The train was packed, couldn't sit together so I had to sit near 3 noisy kids playing games on their phones with the sound up and constantly moving seats. Luckily the journey was only an hour.
Went down to the metro and took the train to the hotel.
Hotel was nice, dropped the bags and went around the corner to the painting of The Last Supper. Sold out. It was a public holiday so we probably picked the worst day to come.
Walked into the main bit, stopped off at a cafe for a light lunch of a slice of pizza for Song and a ham and cheese roll for me, plus a pastry each.
Carried on and entered the Castillo - a huge building with tall walls. As we left we were hassled by guys trying to "give" us string bracelets - it's a con that is also prevalent in Paris and Rome. They say it's free and tie it onto your wrist and then tell you to pay them some money. Despite telling them no they persist and follow you around. There are also guys selling selfie sticks and phone chargers - to me that's fair enough, they are selling something and making a profit, fair go. The other guys are a waste of space.
Walked a bit more and found the Duomo - the main cathedral of Milan. Made of marble, with ornate carvings everywhere, it was very impressive. We decided not to go in because we've seen plenty of churches and the queue was huge. There were a lot of police around, some with riot gear and some soldiers with guns. Behind the cathedral was the biggest sweet shop I've ever seen - three floors of sweets and chocolate. Bought some nibbles and came out to a demonstration - obviously what the police were there for. It was peaceful and we walked around it, then got the metro back to the hotel. The restaurants didn't open for a couple of hours so we watched TV.
Walked around the corner to a restaurant from Tripadvisor but it was a different one - an organic pizza joint. Decided that wasn't for us so walked a bit more and found one by chance. I had spaghetti with yellow tomatoes and cheese to start, Song had seafood pasta. I also had a glass of wine instead of a beer.
For main Song had swordfish, I had beef.
The starter was good but the main was bland - sliced beef with rocket and sweet potato crisps, no dressing or sauce. Cost about $100 and wasn't worth it.
Walked back to the hotel, fly out to Dubai tomorrow.

Day 23 - Lake Como

Woke up around 07:00, breakfast was a bit disappointing, no hot food. The weather was a big change from yesterday - cold and cloudy. The plan today was to get the daily ferry ticket that allowed hop on hop off so we could explore the other towns. Hopefully the weather would mean fewer people around.
The hotel had a sign up about a cycle tour of 65km but we decided against that.
I'd told the owner at breakfast we wanted to get the shuttle bus into the town, but when it turned up 4 others got in and there were no seats left for us, so we had to wait for him to go and come back. Don't know why I bothered booking.
The weather was pretty rotten - very grey and cold. At least it had the effect of keeping people away because in sharp contrast to the previous day there was hardly anyone around. No one waiting to buy a ticket and about 10 waiting to get on the ferry, compared to about 200 the day before. The ferry took us across to Varenna then was going back to Bellagio so we got off and then on to another going where we wanted. Got off that one at Menaggio and walked around the town, stopping for a coffee and taking more photos, although the weather made everything look grey.
Got back on a boat, it called in at several of the towns dotted along the lake, and decided to stay on and go back to Bellagio, which would have been a good idea if the boat went back there, but it didn't - it was going down the lake all the way to Como.
We had to get off at another stop and get the fast boat back, but didn't have long between ours stopping and the fast one arriving. If we missed it we'd have a 2 hour wait for the next one. Luckily we got the fast one and had a 10 minute wait at the next stop.
Back to Bellagio, had lunner (like brunch, only lunch / dinner, our own invention).
Found a restaurant away from the lake front hoping it wouldn't be over priced, but all of Bellagio is a tourist trap.
In a bit of a role reversal I ordered swordfish and Song ordered a pizza.
Mine was a small portion and not very nice, very fishy. Luckily Song couldn't eat all her pizza so I had some. I also had a beer, just for a change.
Cost $59. My small piece of fishy fish cost $25 and they will incur my wrath in the form of a bad Tripadvisor review.
The next shuttle bus was an hour away and we'd seen all of Bellagio so decided to get a taxi back to the hotel.
A bit disappointed with the weather, but nothing we could do about it, and at least it didn't rain.
Tomorrow we start our way back home - one night in Milan, then fly to Dubai and stay overnight, then home.

Day 22 - Bergamo to Bellagio

Woke up around 07:30, decent hotel so a good breakfast although light on the hot food, just bacon and scrambled eggs.
Dumped the bags and walked to the funicular to go up to the 'high city' which is the old town on a hill.
Weather was alternating between sunny and cloudy, around 15c.
Got to the funicular and there was a massive queue, a tour bus had just dropped off about 60 students. Had to wait about 15 minutes to go up.
The town was very old, lots of churches. We went in a couple and because it was Sunday they were conducting mass. The interiors were incredible - the walls and ceilings covered with carvings of angels etc and frescos.
Carried on walking though narrow cobblestone streets enclosed by old, tall buildings and came across the main street that was packed with tourists. Bought some stuff from a bakery then headed back down to the hotel, grabbed an ice cream on the way.
Sat in the hotel for a while using the wifi then walked over to the train station.
Got the train to Lecco, travelled through some nice hills, then had to change to a train to Verenna then off the train onto a ferry, then finally a taxi to the hotel.
Despite being a Sunday there were trains every hour from Bergamo and we only had to wait 10 minutes at Lecco. Whoever was running the country made sure the trains ran on time.
Despite being up north in the hills it was warm, t shirt weather.
The train from Lecco skirted Lake Como, giving some beautiful views of the hills and lake, similar to Lake Koman, but went in and out of tunnels so they were few and far between.
However, when it was possible to see the lake - amazing views.
Got to Verenna, walked down to the ferry to be greeted by mayhem - about 200 people all waiting. Fortunately there were only 4 people in the ticket queue so we must have missed the rush. Got the tickets and waited for the ferry and got pushed on by the crowd. Despite this managed to get one seat.
Bellagio was also hectic, people everywhere. Our hotel wasn't in the town but up in the hills about 3km away, so we got a taxi.
The hotel room was ok, a decent size and the most incredible view of Lake Como, with a balcony.
We decided not to go back into the town because it was so busy and didn't know if we could get a table at any of the restaurants, so ate at the hotel.
We sat outside, on the terrace with the view of the lake, magnificent. Song had once again booked a fantastic hotel. We ordered a plate of cold meats and cheese to share, and I had a beer.
We each ordered a pizza, Song had vegetables and I had 4 cheeses. The pizzas were huge but we hadn't eaten since breakfast and I managed to finish mine.
There was an annoying kid in the restaurant so we decided to go back to the room.
Song said she preferred Lake Koman in Albania, but I think Como is better.
Unfortunately the wifi in the hotel is slow and I can't upload to Flickr, so it will be a couple of days.
Tomorrow the weather doesn't look as good, we're going to buy a day ticket to the ferry and bounce around the towns.

Day 21 - Verona to Bergamo

Slept well, comfy bed.
It was a bed and breakfast place but it charged 6 Euro each for breakfast which seemed a bit of a con. They may as well had said "The room is 100 Euro, if you want a bed that's 20 Euro extra each."
Left our bags (no charge) and went out.
Weather was perfect, around 11c but expected to hit 22.
Walked around and took photos, not too many tourists about because it was early.
Went out of the main part of the city to find somewhere non-touristy for breakfast and found a great little bakery. I had a pancake with banana, chocolate and maple syrup, and became diabetic on the spot.
Song had a bagel.
I also had the best coffee of the trip. Not surprising, this is Italy. So ordered another. Cost was about $21. The size of the pancake serving meant I couldn't have an ice cream again.
Carried on walking, checking off the tourist spots and also checking out all the attractive and stylish women (me) and men (Song). They are easy to spot among all the slobby tourists (me).
Some lovely old buildings, with decorative windows and doors.
Now excuse me for a minute while I get out my soapbox and rant. I understand that getting a photo of a sight will probably involve having other people in the shot. Other people have the right to take photos and I don't have a problem with that. What does annoy me is when selfish people decide that the best place for them to sit and rest and play with their phone is on the steps of the sight that others are taking photos of. It's happened several times so I end up having to try and find a place where I can eliminate them from the shot and end up missing a part. I think next time I'll just go up to them and blatantly take their photo, and tell them that they are far more interesting than the 800 year old church every one else is taking photos of.
Rant over.
Walked back to the hotel, picked up the bags and onto the train station to get the train to Bergamo. Another commuter train but we don't mind, we're on holiday so aren't in a hurry.
Got off the train where we had to change and the train wasn't for 50 minutes so had a coffee.
The train only took about 30 minutes but was packed, and there were loads of teenagers around and I guessed it was a university town, and I was right.
The hotel was very nice and had a bath, so I indulged.
The restaurants didn't open till 19:00 so had some time to relax.
Walked about 10 minutes to the best seafood restaurant in the place but the receptionist said they were fully booked. I hoped that was the case and not that he took one look at me and decided I wasn't fashionable enough. The first time we couldn't get into a place this trip.
Walked around looking for somewhere else, but there was a dearth of restaurants - plenty of ice cream shops and bars, a reflection of the demographic I suppose.
Eventually found one that looked good but was a bit expensive, but it was either that or an ice cream.
I ordered beef, Song had fish, and we had a pizza to share on the advice of the waiter. I decided against a beer.
The pizza was a small tomato with basil and came with a separate saucepan of mozzarella cheese that we added to each slice and it melted into the pizza. It was really good.
My beef was 2 pieces of steak on pureed spinach with Roquefort cheese, and was also really good. We got luckily stumbling upon it. Cost about $80.
Back to the hotel passing all the ice cream shops.
Tomorrow we get the train and a ferry to Bellagio where we stay for 2 nights and potter around Lake Como.

Day 20 - Trieste to Verona

Didn't sleep very well, there was a street light outside the window and the curtains weren't heavy so the room was light, plus the walls were thin so I could hear all the movements and activities of the other guests.
The breakfast wasn't good either - no hot food, just cereal and yoghurt.
Checked out and walked to the train station to wait. The first train of the trip. I prefer trains to buses, much more comfortable.
Got on the train, it was quite busy and sat and relaxed. Had a bit of a panic when I thought we'd missed the station where we had to change trains but looked at the map and realised we changed in Venice where the train terminated.
Got off at Venice, 2 trains in the next 10 minutes to Verona so jogged to the platform to get the next one. It was quite full and looked like a commuter train - the seats were packed close and it was a double decker train. The trip was only about an hour so not bad.
2 hours later we pulled into Verona having stopped at every station in northern Italy.
Walked about 20 minutes to the hotel, discovered that we don't have a bathroom in the room, it's shared. Luckily we're the only people staying, so I won't frighten any other guests if I have to go to the toilet in the middle of the night.
Walked into the main part of the town - a Roman coliseum, and lots of magnificent buildings. Walked around more, visited Juliet's balcony. The whole centre was packed, tons of tourists as well as locals with their dogs.
Found a restaurant on Tripadvisor. We shared a seafood platter that had shell fish, prawns, calamari and pasta that was very good. I had pork with ham, truffle and almond, Song had pike with polenta. I also had a beer.
The restaurant was playing some of my favourite Italian tunes.
My meal was a massive pork chop covered with loads of ham and almonds and some potatoes and it defeated me, I couldn't eat it all. I had wanted an ice cream on the way back but no way was that happening.
Back to the hotel, sleep.

Day 19 - Ljubljana to Trieste

Filled up with breakfast, sun was shining but still cold, went back to the old town to wander and take more photos. Walked up the hill to the castle but didn't go in, we'd seen plenty of fortresses up to now.
Walked to the bus station to buy tickets to Trieste on the next bus but were told there was only one seat. I told Song I'd see her there.
Actually the guy said we could try to buy tickets on the bus which was due in 10 minutes so went and stood outside.
45 minutes later we were still waiting, deciding whether to continue to wait and try our luck or to get a later one. We overheard an English couple who were also trying to buy on the bus and as we were there first made sure we were in front of them. All's fair in love, war and European bus travel.
Eventually we decided we'd had enough of standing in the cold so bought tickets for a later bus, and if the other one turned up as we were walking away, tough.
Went back to the hotel and they let us leave the bags, then bumped into the Chinese couple we met on the lake trip the day before - they were also waiting for a bus but were told there were delays of about 3 hours in Zagreb. Hopefully by the time our bus was leaving it would be cleared
Wandered back into the old town and found a restaurant that was warm. They had a limited menu but we weren't fussy. Song had smoked Slovenian sausage, I had potato goulash with smoked Slovenian sausage. Mine was ok, good for a cold day. We sat in the restaurant for over an hour, it was quiet, the owner playing dice with his friends, MTV classic on the TV playing songs from the 80s and 90s, quite pleasant and relaxing. By the time we left it had warmed up a bit to a balmy 11c.
Went back to the hotel, waited a while in the lobby then to the bus station - the bus was on time and was very nice, new, and hardly anyone on it.
The views weren't much, one over a valley, but when we turned a corner got some fabulous ones over Trieste.
There's not a lot in Trieste really, but just a short walk away was the main square, which was very impressive - some magnificent buildings and a wide open area overlooking the sea.
Took photos, Song wasn't hungry so went back to the apartment, I found a restaurant next to the canal and was directed to a table. To say the staff were laid back is an understatement - young and covered with tattoos they were happily chatting among themselves for 5 minutes before I had to interrupt and ask for a menu.
I ordered a burger (only the second of the trip, quite a record) and a beer (lost count). The beer menu had bottles for about 14 Euro, about $20, but luckily these were 'special' and I just had a common one. There is no smoking in restaurants in Italy, but they do allow e-cigarettes, which I find odd. So although there wasn't the annoying clouds of smoke, there were annoying clouds of various flavours of vaping from hipsters.
The waiter told me my meal would be a while because the kitchen had been closed, which made me wonder why he gave me the menu and accepted my order in the first place.
The sun was going down so ate the meal and waited so I could get some more photos of the square lit up.
I also think I went to the most expensive burger place in Italy because it cost $36. The beer cost $10 and I thought it was the cheap one. I think the cheap part of the trip is over.
Took some photos then went back to the apartment.

Day 18 - Ljubljana

Woke up at 07:00, down to breakfast. The hotel fittings were looking a bit tired, a lot of wood panels and the bathroom wasn't as modern as the others we've had, but it was decent enough.
They did put on a good breakfast though. I had orange juice (2), coffee, muesli, toast, bacon and eggs, yoghurt and a pastry. Made a bit of a change from the cold meats on offer at the other places.
It was a bit cloudy and cold, 2c, and we walked around to the bus station to get the bus to Lake Bled. I also discovered that we can't get a train to Trieste tomorrow, it's another bus, but it's only about 90km so won't be a problem.
Got the bus ok, travelled through pleasant hills getting closer to the mountains covered in snow, still cold. Slovenia is much more attractive than the other Balkan countries; we passed through towns that were busy, clean, no abandoned or half completed houses. The scenery was nice - lots of pine trees, small hills and the mountains.
It reminded us of Switzerland or Bavaria - chalets and fields.
Arrived at the lake and it was bloody freezing and a bit windy. Walked around a bit, quite picturesque but not nearly as impressive as Lake Koman in Albania, although the mountain setting was nice.
Went into a souvenir shop and bought a fridge magnet and some chocolate. Tried to find out how we get to a small island in the lake - we'd bought a ticket but the instructions were a bit vague. Eventually found the tourist information office and they told us, but it wasn't easy to find. We were joined on the boat by 3 Chinese students and Song started talking to them so I asked if she knew them from China but she didn't.
Arrived on the island after about 20 minutes, had a look in the church and even got to ring the bell, that's a first.
Climbed the clock tower then sat in the cafe for a while where we had a coffee and traditional cake that was part of the ticket price. The cafe was playing some of my favourite Slovenian tunes.
More Chinese tourists turned up but Song didn't know them either.
Used their wifi - super fast. The internet in Kosovo and Slovenia is faster than Australia.
Left the warm comfort of the cafe and went back to the boat. The sun came out for a while but it didn't get much warmer, and the trip back across the lake was nice with the mountains and the castle on the hill.
Got the bus back, an hour and a half, stopped at the hotel to drop the bag and then a 5 minute walk to the old town. It was still very cold and cloudy.
The old town was delightful - reminiscent of towns like Warsaw. Old art nouveau buildings, a river, cobblestone streets. All very clean and well maintained. We came across what looked like a restaurant opening, a crowd of people drinking wine and people dressed in traditional Slovenian costume singing. There were loads of restaurants, as well as ice-cream shops. They also had small buses ferrying people around that were free.
I liked Ljubljana, had a nice atmosphere although it could have been warmer. I heard a lot of English people, so I think it is trendy for them to come here at the moment.
Stopped in a restaurant I looked up on Tripadvisor, the number 5 in the town. I had Mediterranean lamb and a beer, Song had grilled octopus.
Both were good, my lamb was a welcome change from the generic meat dishes in the other parts of the Balkans. Also, and what a joy, there was no smoking in the restaurant. Cost about $68.
Went back outside, still very cold so hurried back to the hotel.

Day 17 - Skopje to Ljbubljana

Woke up early, had breakfast then walked into the old town again because the weather was nice and sunny and we wanted to get better photos.
Pottered around for a while looking in the shops, then went back to the hotel to get the taxi to the airport to fly to Ljubljana in Slovenia.
Got to the airport with plenty of time to spare, we were the only people through passport control, then waited to board.
We flew Serbia Air; I'm a bit wary about the small airlines - the pilots of the Qantas A380 flights to London probably did pretty well at pilot school. The ones who fly Serbia Air between Skopje and Belgrade, not so much. The plane was pretty small, a 2 engined turbo prop - not the smallest we've been on, but certainly one of them (an ATR-72-202). The in flight meal was a plain bread roll and small bottle of water. The entertainment was the cabin crew performing traditional Macedonian folk music (not really, but I wouldn't have been surprised).
Fortunately the flight was only just over an hour, but we had a 2 hour layover in Belgrade.
Had a meal of chicken and mushroom carbonara pasta (me) and pizza (Song). There wasn't much choice, but it was actually pretty good for an airport - they cooked it fresh. Also had an ice cream to use up the Serbian cash.
The plane was the same type as the first leg, was quite full and we were greeted by the world's oldest flight attendant. The flight was only an hour and a bit long but I wasn't sure she was going to make it. I think she was the attendant on the Wright brother's flight.
The obligatory screaming baby sat behind us but luckily I had taken out my noise cancelling headphones and also managed to score a seat further in front, gallantly leaving Song behind.
The Ljubljana airport is set amongst some mountains, and the sun was setting behind the snow capped peaks, very pretty.
We aimed to catch the public bus and walk about 10 minutes to the hotel so stood at the bus stop and were approached by a guy saying he would take us in a mini bus directly to the hotel for 9 Euro each. The bus was 4 Euro each but after the experience of Skopje didn't fancy walking in a strange city in the dark, and the guy didn't look axe-murdery so we agreed.
Took about 40 minutes, didn't see much because it was dark.
Tomorrow is Lake Bled and looking around the old town.

Day 16 - Skopje

Woke up around 07:00, breakfast was ok, muesli, toast and yoghurt.
Walked into the town again, then over the stone bridge towards the old town, past more statues and fountains. An old local guy stopped me and asked if I spoke English, so I said yes and he proceeded to speak to me in another language, then when I said I didn't understand he said sorry, shook my hand and walked off.
Bought a fridge magnet and stopped off for a coffee, everywhere takes Euro so we don't need to change any money. The coffee was so strong it practically burnt through the cup.
Song ordered some kind of cake so naturally I had most of it.
Carried on through the old town which was very pleasant - lots of small shops, mostly jewelry and cafes, so if you didn't want gold or coffee you were out of luck. Song stopped in a few jewelry shops and promised the owner she'd be back, although we had no intention of that so had to plan our route back so we didn't go past them again.
The area was bigger than the Prizren and even Sarajevo old towns - lots of streets, but not as busy. It was a change from the other side of town and made for a nice walk. A local offered to take a photo of us and I usually decline because I have visions of handing over the camera only for them to turn and leg it up the road, but we let him this time. The weather had turned, it was about 16c and cloudy, but not unpleasant.
Came across a market selling everything from toilet seats to phones with broken screens. CD stalls were blasting out some of my favourite Macedonian tunes. Not really needing any of these, walked up to the fortress - they do like their fortresses here.
The entrance to the fortress was typical of the place - rubbish everywhere.
We walked along the walls which looked as if they had been repaired recently and were good, but not with great views. The rest of it was appalling; more rubbish, rubble and rusty scaffolding, completely overgrown with weeds, 2 abandoned buildings with graffiti. There were a couple of buildings that looked like they might be museums one day, but were unfinished. I don't understand why they don't spend a bit of money, I think virtually every visitor to Skopje would go to the fortress, and they are greeted by a horrible and unpleasant mess. There were some towers that were permanently closed with wire, one that overlooked the old town, so we couldn't get photos of that. Very disappointed that it was in such a state.
Went back to the main square, stunned at the contrast, looking for somewhere to eat. Most places were cafes and ice cream parlours, but found a restaurant and asked to sit at the back away from the smokers. We realised why so many people smoke - a packet of 20 cost $1.50.
Ordered an appetiser plate of local food to share - ham, pastrami, cheese, mushrooms - most of which was salty.
Decided on pizzas. I had pepperoni, Song had mushroom, and we opted for the small. Just as well, they were huge and we only managed to eat half each. Cost $24.
Having seen everything in Skopje went back to the hotel to watch TV.
Tomorrow we fly to Slovenia.

Day 15 - Prizren to Skopje

Up at 07:00, breakfast of cereal and yoghurt, didn't fancy the cold meats. Sunny day and warm, but apparently the next few days are going to be cold and wet.
Bus trip (which is our last, train from now on) took about 3.5 hours through some pretty valleys then onto a plain which wasn't very interesting so I watched some TV.
Got to the bus station which was in a pretty crap area. As soon as we got off we were descended upon by men asking 'Taxi? Taxi? Where you go? Airport?'
We walked to the hotel past the crumbling, graffiti-covered blocks of flats, turned right at the dead cat, carried on past the abandoned car and then left around the gloomy factory.
It turned out the gloomy factory was actually the hotel, complete with graffiti on the front.
We'd already pre paid, but I asked Song if she wanted to forfeit it and go elsewhere, but we thought we'd reserve judgement till we'd seen the room. It was actually ok, so we decided to stay. Reading the reviews on Tripadvisor you'd think it was the Hilton. It was clean and comfortable, a decent size and the bathroom was modern. We've stayed in worse in London and Paris.
Today was Easter Sunday, a holiday, so everything was shut, but we hoped to find a restaurant or cafe in the town centre which was open, so headed out, thankfully in the opposite direction from the bus station.
The place was a bit of a dump - uneven pavements, wires sticking up, rubbish and graffiti everywhere. The river had tons of rubbish floating, and it was all along the river bank as well.
But there were magnificent bridges and buildings along the river, so if you looked above the pavement it looked fabulous.
Stopped off at a restaurant that had a good choice, and fed up (literally) with fish for the last week, had a burger. And a beer. Song had black risotto, like I had in Kotor a couple of days ago.
Song liked hers, mine wasn't very good - it looked the part with lettuce, tomato and cheese, but the meat tasted processed. Maybe I should stick to fish. Cost just over $16, so can't complain about that.
Walked along the river bank, then turned into the most amazing town square we have seen - it was like a different country.
The square was white tiles, with the kind of fountain that has jets coming up that operate in patterns, in the main part of the square. To the rear of the square was a huge, 30m statue of Alexander the Great on horseback on top of a column with lions all around and statues of soldiers, also with the water jets. Unbelievable.
We took photos, then went back to the hotel a different way. Turned the corner and once again crappy blocks of flats with graffiti, rubbish everywhere, broken pavements, just awful. But loads of statues depicting famous people (I assume) and significant events of the country's history (I assume). I think the government should spend more money on the basics and lay off the statue building for a while.
We hurried back to the hotel - we have all day tomorrow, and I didn't want to be out after dark, it felt a bit iffy - the first time in all our travels, excepting possibly Morocco, that I thought it wouldn't be safe.
We have all day tomorrow here, not a lot to do but there is an old town and fortress, and at least we're not on a bus. We'll just relax, and try not to get robbed.

Day 14 - Shkoder to Koman to Prizren

Got woken up at 22:30 by a bunch of kids shouting and running up and down the corridor - phoned reception to find out what was going on, receptionist was apologetic, said it was some kids - which I knew, but wondered if it was guests or trouble. Sounded like a school trip.
Got up at 05:25, downstairs and waiting at 06:20, mini bus turned up on time to our great relief.
Got joined by some others then left the city. The custom in Albania is for people to wait by the side of the road and flag down passing transport for a lift. We were joined by an old guy who went about 1 km, then stopped at a small village and picked up a bloke and his 3 kids. As we continued on, saw quite a few donkeys pulling carts and a guy taking 3 cows for a walk.
The bus travelled up and down hills, around a lake, and some of the roads were pretty rough and it was slow going at some points. Song pointed out that there wouldn't be a normal bus service, the roads were too bad. Even though it was slow, the bus was owned by the ferry operator so we knew we wouldn't miss it. Actually it turned out that the bloke and his 3 kids were the owners, the bloke the captain.
The radio was on and we listened to some of my favourite Albanian tunes.
The road wound around the hills, skirting a lake, presenting some great views once again, the early morning sun striking the hills and reflecting off the still green water of the lake.
It took 25 minutes to go the last 10km over very rough roads. We came out of a tunnel to the ferry terminal which was a very small jetty packed with cars parked all over the place, with a cafe and shop, and a very small ferry waiting to board passengers and cars, a mixture of tourists and locals.
As we got off the bus, the cold hit us - it was about 7c, but the sun was shining so we hoped it would warm up.
Song spent a lot of planning getting us here - today was the first day after winter that the ferry runs, so she did a lot of scheduling and rescheduling to get us here today.
We hadn't had breakfast so went into the cafe but they only did drinks. There was a small shop that sold crisps and nibbles so we bought some junk food just for something to eat.
The ferry was packed, lots of nationalities.
I won't spend much time describing the journey, I'll just say it was really special. If you've been to Milford Sound it's like that, only a lot better. 3 hours of travelling on still green water between sheer cliffs, tree covered hills, stunning scenery. Got chatting with a young couple, him English, her German. They were in their mid twenties and both had travelled extensively - Albania was his 49th country and he only started travelling 4 years ago. It's taken me 45 years to do that.
Took loads of photos, Song and I agreed the scenery is better than Canada. There were quite a few houses on the hillside, I've no idea how they live there, it's so isolated. They were farms, and we saw a few gravity-defying goats walking on the steep slopes. Every so often there would be a small boat unloading people who piled gear onto donkeys and headed up a narrow path to one of the farms.
The couple mentioned they were travelling to the same place as us - Prizren in Kosovo.
When Song was researching this leg, the travel was a bit iffy. It's quite a way off the beaten track. There are a few blogs and Tripadvisor forum posts, but no bus timetables as such.
The plan was to get off the ferry at Fierza, where there are mini buses waiting to take people to Barjam Curri. From there we would get another bus to Djakovica. Get off that one and onto another to Prizren. Only about 90km in total, but probably looking at a 2-3 hour trip depending on how often the buses run.
Got off at Fierza, which was basically a bit of land for the ferry to stop at, with a small cafe and several cars waiting to get on - no buses waiting to take anyone. OK, that's sort of a problem.
Song spoke to one of the locals from the boat who dashed into the cafe, and got the owner to call a taxi, said it would cost 50 Euro total. We spoke to the couple who were more than happy to share.
Taxi arrived in about 5 minutes, an old Volkswagen, but big enough for all of us and our luggage. The driver didn't speak English but knew where we were going.
After about 30 minutes we came to the border with Kosovo - the guard asked if we were ok to have a stamp, which was good of him. If you go to Kosovo you might have trouble getting into Serbia because they don't recognise it. We were through in about 5 minutes.
Just over the border we encountered a man taking his horses for a walk in the middle of the road. The driver put the radio on and we listened to some of my favourite Kosovan tunes.
The countryside was mostly flat with snow topped mountains in the distance, and it looked a bit poorer than Albania.
When we got to Prizren the driver nudged me to ask where we wanted to stop. 'Avtobuska Stanic' I replied, having read the sign in Kotor. He had no idea what I was talking about. I pointed to a coach - 'bus. Avtobus. Avtobuska. Autobus'. He nodded and proceeded to follow the bus.
Oh well, I hoped the bus was going to the station. Luckily the others saw the bus station so we told him to stop.
Had a nice chat with the couple, parted ways at the bus station and went to buy tickets for the next day, but were told we buy them on the bus.
We hadn't booked a hotel so needed to find a cafe with internet, plus food. The first one had wifi but just cakes. The second had food but no wifi. The third was a pizzeria that had wifi. Yay.
Sat down in the empty restaurant and the 3 staff looked at us as if they didn't expect anyone, so I asked for the menu which spurred them into action.
I looked at the menu - Pizza Normale - OK, boring. Margerita - yep, know what that is. Tuna - easy. Suxhuk - we'll come back to that. Somun - nope. Lamaxhun - not a clue.
Song ordered tuna, I took a gamble and went for the Suxhuk. If it was sheep's eyeballs I'd decline. Luckily it turned out to be salami.
Meanwhile the restaurant suddenly became the most popular in Prizren as 13 people turned up (and most started smoking). But they all had coffee then left after about 10 minutes. So we had 2 decent sized pizzas, a coffee, a can of iced tea, they gave me a juice without me asking, and I also had 2 scoops of ice cream. Cost 5 Euro, which was $7. SEVEN DOLLARS! Amazing.
Used the wifi to find a hotel that was close and looked decent, just turned up and luckily he had about 40 rooms free.
Walked into the old town, very small and busy, there was an old stone bridge and a few mosques, some churches and a fortress on top of a hill. Having climbed the hill in Kotor yesterday we decided against it. As we were taking photos of the bridge the couple we'd shared the cab with appeared. Had a brief chat then parted again, we wandered around. Tried to get into the churches but there was police there not allowing visitors in. We'd read there was an advisory that terrorists were going to target Christian churches in the Balkans over Easter, so probably just as well.
Walked back to the hotel and collapsed.
We were going to spend 2 nights in Prizren but have decided to leave tomorrow and onto Skopje in Macedonia. 3 countries in 3 days, a record for us.
Once again Song booked a fantastic trip, somewhere I would never have thought about. The ferry trip was just incredible scenery. I'd certainly recommend it, but you need to be up for a bit of uncertainty and mild discomfort, it's not 5 star travel, and I don't know if we were lucky with the taxi or they are always available.

Day 13 - Kotor to Shkoder

Woke up to the alarm for the first time at 06:45, up to now we've just woken up naturally.
We're now half way through our trip.
Walked 10 minutes to the bus station, hoped to find a place to exchange some money to Albanian currency but it was a bit early. I'm not sure of the availability of ATMs in Albania.
The bus to Shkoder was a small one, half the size of the other coaches, and we were the only ones on it. The coach driver got off with a cigarette in his mouth so Song told him I have asthma, and I coughed for effect. I don't, but we didn't want him smoking for 4 hours in the small bus.
He put the radio on so we sat back and watched the scenery going by to some of our favourite Montenegren (Montenegroen?) tunes.
We travelled inland for a while, then hit the coast again, the road half way up the hill with more great views of the coast and out to sea, sun shining again.
Montenegro seemed a bit more prosperous than some of the other Balkan countries, probably because they are part of the European Union. I think it could be the next Croatia in terms of tourism. It certainly has the views, Kotor is a great little ancient town (although already pretty busy), and the weather we had was perfect.
The bus stopped at a big town (Budva) and 3 more people got on, spoiling our private tour.
The weather had been sunny, but it started to cloud over.
We drove out of Budva and it looked as if it is a major summer destination, lots of hotels and holiday homes, spas, beaches and lots more being built.
As we climbed, we saw a group of houses on a small island joined to the mainland by a causeway, very picturesque.
Turned inland again, driving around twisty roads through the hills, clouds covering the tops, looking as if it might rain.
Went through a tunnel for about 5 minutes, came out the other side into bright sunshine, not a cloud in the sky. I've no idea how that happened, it was like a different day. Remarkable.
The tree-covered hills were all around with some plains dotted with farms. I checked google maps, and we were heading inland around a lake rather than directly to Shkoder via the coast - obviously the route was more lucrative going via the main towns.
Passed through an area of marsh and wetlands with reeds, and small tributaries with boats moored, the area very green. Carried on around the lake, more pleasant scenery.
Pulled into the bus station in the capital, Podgorica, then left and drove around the still waters of the lake until we came to the border crossing into Albania.
We waited about an hour to get through - it looked exactly like you'd expect the border to Albania to look; unorganised queues of traffic, an unpaved road, and the guards in what were basically huts, people standing around smoking.
Finally through, and as we drove into the country there were 2 cows just walking in the road and sheep at the side of the road, just wandering around.
As we drove along, the houses were surprisingly nice - in good condition, pretty big.
Pulled into Shkoder, a typical city - lots of people, bad drivers, and a lot of people on bikes. The bus dropped us off, luckily outside a bank, so went to change money but were stopped by a security guard who wouldn't let us take our luggage in. There was also a guy with a metal detector, so it seems it's a bit dodgy here.
Albania is supposedly the poorest country in Europe, but from what we'd seen so far it was not as bad as Serbia or Bosnia. Lots of modern German cars in good condition, people smartly dressed and clean, well maintained buildings.
Not what we expected.
Walked about 30 minutes to the hotel - 1 of 2 listed on hotels.com in Shkoder that was supposed to be in the centre of town. They had zebra crossings but the traffic doesn't stop, so we had to wait for a gap in the traffic - not a lot of point in having them really. Even when we were on them the cars just kept going past.
The hotel was part of a service station so our faces dropped when we saw it, but it was actually good - decent sized room, King size bed, clean and modern bathroom and it also had a balcony overlooking a park. To be honest I think it's quite hard these days to get a bad hotel unless you just turn up somewhere without looking online first.
Settled down for a while, then walked back to the bus station to book tomorrow's tickets to a town where we would take a ferry up a gorge. The only problem was there was no ticket office. We asked a couple of young people but they didn't speak English, but some of their friends turned up, 3 teenage girls, one of whom did, and they very kindly offered to take us to where we could buy tickets. We ended up in a travel agents who called the owner of the ferry, spoke for a couple of minutes then said the owner would pick us up from our hotel in the morning and drive us there for 10 Euro. Er, OK. It was a bit informal, but the travel agent didn't want to take the money so I thought he's not trying to con us, should be ok. If he didn't turn up we could try a taxi, but there's one ferry that leaves at 09:00 so it would be tight.
Stopped off at another seafood restaurant where Song had squid (again) and I had fish (again). We usually try different things, but the meat all over the Balkans just doesn't look nice - very greasy and all fried. So it's seafood until we have more choice.
I also ordered a beer, just for a change.
My meal was decent, but Song's came out and was entree sized, so we also ordered extra vegetables.
Walked back to the hotel, couldn't find anywhere to buy some rolls for the trip tomorrow since we'd be leaving at 06:20 and would miss breakfast, so would just have to go hungry.
I asked the hotel to call the ferry owner to confirm he was going to pick us up, and as I was talking to him the agent called the hotel to confirm, so I felt happier we wouldn't be left stranded.
Watched TV, sleep, early start tomorrow.

Day 12 - Kotor

The hotel was actually an apartment, with a separate kitchen and bathroom, although just a shower, nice to have a bit of room.
Another bed that was 2 singles pushed together and 2 doonas. Whoever thought that is a good idea?
Left the apartment to get breakfast and go to the bus station to get the next tickets.
The weather was pleasant, about 18c and sunny although there were a few dark clouds.
On the way through the town we stopped to take some photos. There are loads of cats around, I think Kotor is famous for them because they are on postcards and souvenirs. People put out food for them, and they go in and out of the tables. They all look pretty healthy, although I don't think they all get on because some had some battle scars.
Song went into a church while I waited outside. After about 10 minutes Song hadn't come out so I went inside. They were conducting a service, about 10 priests chanting. I couldn't see Song, so went back outside. Not there. Went back into the church. Nope. Back outside. Not there. Back in the church. Still not there. Ah.
I thought about going down the winding streets but thought it unlikely we'd find each other by chance.
Went back to the apartment and not there either, but I connected to the wifi and used a chat app, luckily Song had the same idea. She didn't see me outside the church and thought I'd carried on. Managed to find each other and went for breakfast. Found a cafe down one of the streets and I had an omelette (salty), Song had bacon and eggs.
Went over to the bus station, got the tickets, then back through the town to tackle the hill up to the fortress.
The weather was just right for the climb, sunny but not hot, with some cloud. Looking up, it was a bit daunting and I thought we'd get about half way, and that would be an achievement.
The entrance fee was 3 Euro and the ticket seller was cunningly sat at the bottom of the steps, knowing full well that some people wouldn't make it.
I decided I was going to the top. 3 Euro is 3 Euro.
The path was steep and winding with steps to one side, so it was a case of having to step off if people were coming the other way. Every so often we'd stop at a junction to rest and take photos - as we got higher the views over the town and bay became better and better.
It was quite busy, people of all ages and nationalities struggling up the hill.
The higher we went, the more often we stopped - it was very steep, and the steps were not in the best condition.
It took just over an hour to get to the top.
The views were worth it, took lots of photos. Stayed there for about 20 minutes taking in the views and recovering from the climb.
Headed back down, which was a lot easier, but my legs started to get wobbly and my thighs were beginning to resemble a Tour de France cyclist's.
On the way down I was trying to decide whether to reward myself with an ice cream or a beer. Then thought 'why not both?'. There are 1350 steps, so I figured I deserved it.
Luckily our apartment was just next to the entrance so we staggered back, had a shower and collapsed for a while, happy that I got my 3 Euro's worth.
Song stayed in the apartment but there was an ice cream and beer waiting for me so I went out.
Kotor is quite busy, there were lots of tourists and groups, and the town is actually over 1500 years old.
Slurped my ice cream while wandering through the streets, then sat in a courtyard drinking a beer, replacing the calories I'd worked so hard to lose.
Went back to the apartment and watched some TV before heading out for dinner.
Meandered through the narrow streets, not as many tourists as earlier, taking more photos. Kotor is a very pleasant town, definitely worth a trip from Dubrovnik.
Checked Tripadvisor for a restaurant, the number 2 was a seafood restaurant outside the town but only 5 minutes away, sat right on the water, looking over the bay which is surrounded by hills, the sun going down behind them, the sea perfectly still. A tranquil scene and the best setting for a meal I've ever had.
I ordered the fish soup to start, which was delicious - small pieces of fish in a tomato and capsicum broth. Song had a seafood soup that had small pieces of fish, squid and prawns in a broth.
I had sea bass and potato and shard (again, must be trendy). Also had a beer, a dark ale. Cost $72.
The meal was the best of the trip so far.
I'm trying to upload photos to Flickr but the internet here is really slow and it keeps timing out.
Tomorrow is a 4 hour bus ride to Shkoder, Albania.

Day 11 - Dubrovnik to Kotor

Woke around 07:00, checked out but left the bags. An absolutely perfect day. Sun shining, not a cloud in the sky, 22c. Decided to walk around the walls instead of breakfast, opting to have brunch later.
The walk cost twice as much as 5 years ago, $30 each, but is a must-do.
A bunch of Japanese women pushed past us and monopolised the photo spots so we let them go and just enjoyed the view for a while. From the top of the entrance to the wall you look across a small inlet with some small rocks and crystal clear water to a small fort on an outcrop. Look into the town and you get a marvellous view of the red tiled roofs of the tightly packed houses and a few churches.
Carried on along the wall, fewer people around and we managed to get some great photos, but were also able to just stop and take it all in. We always travel in April - the weather can be a bit hit or miss but we tend to get many more good days than bad. The main reason we like it is that it's off season and there aren't as many people around.
It took about an hour and a half to go around the wall, for the most part on our own or with just a few people. Stunning views of the town and the small harbour. The last time we were here it was cold and blowing a gale - it's called The Bora - so this time we made the most of it and enjoyed the experience.
They film Game of Thrones here, it's King's Landing in the show, so I pushed a kid off the wall and walked around naked.
Lunchtime, went outside to a restaurant that was right on the water, with a view of the fort and the inlet out to the Adriatic Sea. Considering the location it was reasonably priced. I had a pizza with ham, salami and mushroom, Song had grilled calamari. I also had the best coffee of the trip so far, so had a second one because it was so pleasant and relaxing sitting there. Cost $45.
Walked back into the old town, quite a few tourists around but not too bad. Song stopped to look at most of the jewelry shops, I stood outside, happy to soak in the atmosphere, resisting the temptation of another ice cream.
Walked around the old town some more, came across a church with a magnificent sandstone facade, a perfect photo except for the fat, tattooed, bald guy smoking a cigar sat in the middle of the steps playing with his phone. No consideration for any one else, someone I took an immediate dislike to.
Luckily he left after 10 minutes but not before 2 other arseholes sat down and got in the way.
Song found a jewelry stand and bought some stuff.
Headed back to the hotel to pick up the bags, then onto the bus station, takings the bus to Kotor, Montenegro.
I think Croatia is underrated, would definitely recommend Dubrovnik and Split, although I suspect it gets crowded in summer.
The bus was half full (or half empty depending on your point of view), so spread out again.
Ok, you know I said the scenery between Mostar and Dubrovnik yesterday was the best? I lied. Coming out of Dubrovnik the road went along the top of the hill, and the view over the sea and of the old town was completely breathtaking. Perfect.
The road continued along the coast, maintaining the stunning views over the sea, still not a cloud in the sky, then turned inland for a while.
Crossed over the border into Montenegro, then back along the coast.
Remember I said the views out of Dubrovnik were the best? I lied.
The drive from Herceg Novi to Kotor goes along the Bay of Kotor, which is surrounded by hills. The road is right next to the sea and snakes around with the steep hills all around. At one part of the bay there are a couple of small islands with churches on them. The water is blue and still, clear near the shore, and lots of small settlements dotted along the road.
When Song said we should go to the Balkans I said "Um, OK, might be nice". Once again she booked an incredible trip.
We got off the bus and walked 10 minutes to the old town (or Stari Grad as they are called), past a small marina with some fancy yachts, through the gate into a small town with narrow lanes lined with shops and restaurants, a delightful scene. We followed Google maps, occasionally losing the signal because of the tightly packed buildings, then discovered we were heading the wrong way. The streets were narrow and twisted, and it was hard to find the hotel but eventually we got there. Kotor was very quaint from what we saw winding our way through the streets.
We'd just got in when there was a knock on the door, it was the guest from upstairs, a pleasant lady who asked if we would like to go to dinner together. So we did, had a nice evening chatting (she was born in Jamaica, lived in Canada from when she was 7, has lived in a small town in Northern India for 10 years, is trying to start a business supplying home baking equipment). Every one has a story and an interesting life.
I had black risotto (squid ink), Song had blue fish bruscetta. Both were good, cost about $50.
Walked over the very narrow road to the room.
If you ever go to Dubrovnik (and really, you should go to Dubrovnik), and the weather is good, take a day and go to Kotor by bus, you can do it in a day trip but it's worth an overnight stay. I don't know why more people don't come here - maybe they think it's a bit under developed, and Montenegro probably isn't on most lists of places to visit, but maybe it should be. It's the best coastal scenery I have ever seen, for about 2 hours of the trip it's just beautiful.
Tomorrow we spend the day in Kotor, there is a fortress at the top of a hill that apparently is worth visiting but it looks like a tough walk. We'll give it a go.

Day 10 - Sarajevo to Mostar to Dubrovnik

Up at 06:00, out into the cold, on the tram, another day, another bus.
Got to the bus station early, sat in the waiting room and ate some of the food we bought yesterday.
Got on the bus, driven by the most unfriendly man in the world. Showed him we had bags - 'moment'. Stood waiting for 5 minutes. Showed him again - 'moment'. After a couple of minutes he went to the great effort of pressing a button to open the compartment. I put the bags in next to two others , then he got off the bus, tutted, and stood the bags up. On their wheels. I asked him what time we get to Mostar and he just ignored me. I shall write a strongly worded letter to their head office.
We liked Sarajevo. The old town was very pleasant, lots of people around, nice shops and historic buildings. The place had a nice vibe, we enjoyed wandering around. The city is surrounded by hills with houses all around. Plus the free public transport was a bonus.
The bus was half full, so we spaced out. Had a snooze, and woke up as we were climbing through mountains, snow on the peaks in the distance. The bus made several stops and it was soon full.
Pretty soon we encountered some of the most stunning scenery - steep granite hills covered in trees, a river running alongside the road. This went on for about an hour, we just sat there taking it all in (Song took photos).
Arrived in Mostar, bought the tickets to Dubrovnik then we had just over an hour to visit the old bridge. Dropped off the luggage, took a brisk walk into the old town, along a cobbled narrow street lined with shops selling souvenirs. Lots of quaint buildings, and turned a corner to see the bridge. It's really pretty - although not original since it was destroyed during the war in the 90's, but still looked amazing with old buildings either side, which Song told me were also rebuilt.
Hustled back to the bus station, stopping to buy some cheesy things and a bottle of water, took a wrong turn but back with plenty of time to spare. Then realised we'd spent all our local currency and they charge to put the luggage on the bus (which is a con if you ask me). Luckily they accepted euro. The bus was full - there's only one a day at this time of year.
Drove for about an hour till the border, about 40 minutes to get through and we were in Croatia. We worked out yesterday that Bosnia and Herzegovina was the 50th different country I've been to.
As soon as we got into Croatia it seemed greener and cleaner. Passed through more granite hills then ahead of us we saw the coast. And what a coast. Absolutely beautiful. Blue sea, tree-covered hills meeting the water, small villages nestled in the bays. It is easily the equal to the French and Italian coastlines in my opinion.
Stopped again at border control - back into Bosnia because they own land that extends to the sea, effectively cutting Croatia in two. In about 10 minutes we were at border control again to get back into Croatia.
Back on the coast road and past more stunning scenery. I really think this is the best coast drive, if you ever get the chance, take the bus from Dubrovnik to Split or the other way. Truly spectacular.
Hopped on the bus to our hotel which was inside the old city walls, paid for the bus this time.
The hotel was just around the corner from the main gate. The room was small, which is to be expected because the old town is tightly packed. The sun was shining, plenty of tourists around but not too bad. We came here 5 years ago and it was very windy and raining.
Wandered around as we do, then found a restaurant - every restaurant inside the old city walls is a bit pricey but we didn't fancy hopping on another bus. I had salmon on a bed of corn with salsa, Song had calamari. I'm starting to go off seafood, suspect a burger is on the horizon. The meal was OK, cost about $62, over priced really. We'll try to avoid the main tourist areas from now on.
Walked around a bit more, then back to the hotel.
We'd been to Dubrovnik 5 years before, so didn't need to stay. Tomorrow is another bus, another country.

Day 9 - Sarajevo

Slept well despite the bed being short and the strange East European custom of having 2 single doonas for a queen size bed, woke up around 07:00.
Discovered that the shower floor slopes away from the drain so the bathroom floor became a huge puddle.
Also discovered that the bed and breakfast is just a bed, it doesn't include breakfast so we headed out. It was very cold, 5c, but was sunny and set to get to 20c later in the day.
Went back to the main street to look for breakfast. There were lots of cafes offering a wide range of choice. We could have meat in Turkish bread, or meat in Turkish bread, some places had meat in Turkish bread while others had meat in Turkish bread. There was even one place that had meat in Turkish bread. We decided to have meat in Turkish bread. It was actually pretty good - small lamb sausages in a Turkish bread pocket, cream cheese and onion. It's called cevapi. Cost $12.30.
Went to a couple of travel agents to ask about getting to Mostar and Dubrovnik tomorrow. According to the web the last bus from Mostar to Dubrovnik leaves at 12:30 and it takes about 3 hours from Sarajevo, so we needed to get the early bus at 06:00, which meant getting up at around 04:30. I thought we should skip it, but Song said to go to the bus station to check.
By now it had warmed up and was t shirt weather, sunny and about 20c. Hopped on a packed tram, didn't pay, then a quick walk where we bought a ticket to Mostar at 08:15 - much better, and cost $24.60 for 2 of us.
Got back on the tram, didn't pay (we really tried, but you couldn't move on them and it was only a few stops), then sat down for an ice cream in a smoky cafe. They don't smoke as much as Serbians, but it's still disgusting. They do like their ice cream here, there are loads of shops.
Wandered around a bit in the glorious weather, looking at the bullet holes in the buildings and the invitations to museums of war crimes and atrocities, and others on the siege of Sarajevo and the war.
To cheer ourselves up we went to the Latin Bridge where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was assassinated which started the first world war.
Walked along the river then back to the hotel where there were 2 cold beers waiting that Song had bought at one of the bus stops the day before.
Sat in the room and relaxed, reading the internet and watching TV. It's odd to think, but Sarajevo is a Muslim city, apparent by the mosques every few blocks, and the call to prayer that drifts out every few hours.
Did some research on the restaurant, picked a seafood one because Song likes seafood and I don't mind it, and the meat here is too heavy.
Went shopping first, bought a fridge magnet and Song bought a ring and some earrings.
Walked to the restaurant, best seafood restaurant in Sarajevo. Ironically we were headed towards it yesterday but I didn't fancy walking up the hill, so instead we ended up at the crappy one.
This one was not crappy by any means.
Song ordered fish soup, I ordered mushroom soup to start and also a glass of wine. We opted to share a mixed seafood platter.
There was only one other table occupied because it was early, and of course they were smoking.
The soup was very nice, and as we were eating the chef came out and threw our fish on the grill that was against the wall in the restaurant.
The platter was presented in one dish - 2 whole fish, 2 scampi, octopus and shell fish. The waiter deboned the fish and served it to us. It was very good. Not as good as the tuna steak I had in Belgrade the first night, but better than the stuffed calamari. Cost $72.
Couldn't face dessert, and even gave up the idea of an ice cream on the way back.
Heaved myself out of the chair, squeezed out of the door and waddled down the road, went for a walk down the main street again, bought some food for the bus trip, then back to the hotel.

Day 8 - Belgrade to Sarajevo

Woke up at 6:00, didn't sleep too well because some people came back to their rooms around midnight and woke me up. If I had known the room numbers I would have knocked as we went down to breakfast.
Had toast, cereal, coffee and juice, a quick one, then checked out and over the road to the bus station for the 7 hour journey to Sarajevo. Apparently there used to be a train but it stopped running a few years ago due to lack of patronage.
The weather was a lot better, a bit cold but sunny - unlucky for us, but we can't help the weather.
Bus left on time, then drove through flat countryside on the freeway, more abandoned and half finished buildings. We then turned off and drove along back roads for about 3 hours before arriving at border control.
As soon as we were in Bosnia Herzegovina the scenery changed to granite hills, and we drove around a very picturesque lake and along a river with the hills all around, then through small towns and villages. Most people seemed to have small fields growing crops. Saw some houses with bullet holes in them, but not as many as I expected.
The bus stopped several times on the way, and it was quite relaxing to watch the scenery go by, read and watch some stuff I'd downloaded.
The bus started to climb, and we were treated to a spectacular view of the town where we'd just stopped and the hills we'd driven through. Are this stage we still had about 3 hours to go.
Kept going up along a winding road, magnificent views over the hills, the sun breaking through the clouds.
We went up quite a way, even saw some patches of snow, then started to descend the other side. We passed and few small farms and settlements as well as an abandoned ski resort, the chair lift mechanism rusted and in pieces.
Carried on down, Song and I both had a snooze, then we entered another gorge, more huge cliffs and a river. All along the way was rubbish at the side of the road; plastic bags, bottles, cans etc. We've seen this in virtually all the East European countries and it's really depressing, they just dump it and don't care.
We went through a few tunnels and then saw the outskirts of Sarajevo. I don't think I've ever seen a more impressive welcome to a place. We were above the thousands of red roofed houses, some on rock outcrops, laid out in the valleys in between the hills and on the hillsides. Poking up from among the houses were dozens of minarets of mosques. It really was an amazing sight.
Drove along and now there were lots of houses with the pock marks of bullet holes.
Arrived at the bus station which was quite a way out of the main town and from our hotel. Popped to a shopping centre to get some cash - this is the fourth country and the forth different currency. Found an ATM - 'transaction could not be completed'. Tried a different card - 'transaction could not be completed'. Hmmm. Tried the last card and it worked.
Hopped in a taxi and 10 minutes later he dropped us off, pointed over the road and said '1 minute'. Turned out it was 10 minutes and he charged us $14 and I think ripped us off, but what can you do?
Walked through the old part of the city, past a few mosques and loads of restaurants, and it was packed. Lots of tourists as well, heard American accents and German.
Got to the hotel which was actually a guest house and up a side street away from the main road. It wasn't very nice. It was someone's house, so basically a bed and breakfast. The room was small, but clean and the bathroom was modern.
The owner advised that there is no water between midnight and 06:00, something to do with the Sarajevo water supply. Wonderful.
Left the house and found the quick way to the main part of the old town and it was buzzing. Loads of people about, and the weather was perfect, sunny and about 22c.
Walked down the main street, passed about 4 mosques, lots of cafes and ice cream shops so naturally I had to have one. 2 scoops for $1.44.
Started to feel a bit hungry so looked for a restaurant - almost all were cafes or barbecue places. We found one place that was on the main strip but was empty, but there didn't seem to be much choice so we thought we'd give it a go. The menu was mainly meat but they did do fish. I ordered trout, Song ordered tripe. Got the wifi password and checked the restaurant on TripAdvisor. Number 253 out of 320 in Sarajevo. Oh dear. The meal was very average. After the meal the waiter came up and asked 'Is good?' 'Barely edible' I replied, smiling. 'Completely bland and tasteless' I said, nodding. It cost about $25.
We left the restaurant, and it was now quite chilly. Still lots of people around. First impressions of Sarajevo were good - a lot cleaner and less grey than Belgrade and Sofia, more tourists, nicer shops and a good vibe. Went back to the hotel and watched TV, full day in Sarajevo tomorrow.

Day 7 - Belgrade

Woke up at 07:00, down to breakfast. Orange juice, coffee, yoghurt, pastries, toast. Not a great selection of hot food.
Weather was still grey but not raining, around 9c.
Today we're wandering around Belgrade. Song looked at the history of Belgrade and it has been in around 140 wars. We leave tomorrow, hopefully before the next one kicks off.

Out into the cold, walked into the centre of the city, down the main shopping street. Lots of restaurants with tables set up outside. Carried on to the fortress, the main attraction in Belgrade. It was quite impressive - on top of a hill with commanding views over the city and the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers. It is now a park and there were a lot of stalls set up selling food and souvenirs. Wandered around a bit then back down the main street again and coming towards us was a procession of people dressed in medieval gear and wearing armour, some on horseback.
Popped into a cafe, had a latte that came with a straw, something new, also had a Nutella and cherry crepe while Song had a salad. Cost about $9. We asked for the non smoking section and the waiter told us downstairs, we were the only ones there. Others arrived and all lit up - obviously something lost in translation, so we got out of there.
When we emerged back onto the street it had been raining, so we missed it. Just as well, because I'd left the umbrella back in the hotel (I've got to stop doing that). Saw a bakery and bought some rolls for the bus trip the next day. The bakery was the same colour scheme as a chain we like in Europe - Pauls - and the food was the same, but the name was different. So there you go.
Walked around the corner to an old part of the city, which was really one street lined with restaurants and with a cobblestone road, which was a twisted ankle and faceplant waiting to happen with all the rain making them wet.
Not much to see, so headed back in the rain via a market, bought some fruit then back to the hotel to do the photo backup ritual - SD card out, copy to the PC, copy to the external HDD, upload to the cloud.
It started to brighten up so we went out again, back to the fortress so Song could take another 200 photos (I'm not joking). Lots of people out now, filling the restaurants and strolling around. Walked to the number 2 seafood restaurant. Got a table OK even though it was Saturday night, luckily it was early so it wasn't very busy and we actually had a smoke-free meal for a change.
They gave us a small starter of tuna and whitefish pate and bread, then we ordered - I had squid stuffed with risotto and prawns, Song had grilled squid. Both were served with shard cabbage on potato (same as the restaurant yesterday - it's either traditional or trendy) and a leek and carrot thing, We also ordered a seasonal salad which was basically coleslaw without the mayonnaise.
The meal was pretty good, but not as good as the place the day before. They gave us a complimentary dessert to share and a coffee - not because we complained, but because it was our first time there.
Not wanting to walk anymore, and because some of the streets looked a bit dodgy (we felt OK during the day), we got a cab back to the hotel.
Tomorrow we're up at 06:00 for a 7 hour bus trip to Sarajevo.

Day 6 - Nis to Belgrade

Woke up around 06:00, on the way to breakfast I changed people's 'Do not Disturb' notices to 'Please make up my room' and vice versa. It's the little things.
Breakfast was unusual - lots of local food. I had a sesame seed pastry filled with chopped bacon and tomato relish (not bad), a piece of roll with cream cheese, tomato and shredded cheese (too cheesy), bacon, cheese pie, and a couple of pastries. The restaurant was a bit small and was playing music, many of my favourite Serbian tunes.
Checked out, trundled down to the bus station and bought the tickets to Belgrade. It's amazing how far pointing and nodding gets you when you don't speak the language.
Journey took about 3 hours through fairly uninspiring countryside, saw quite a few abandoned and half built houses.
Arrived in Belgrade, pretty depressing; grey tower blocks, concrete overpasses, graffiti everywhere. It was also miserable weather. Got off the bus and the hotel was literally over the road, and another modern one. Very spacious bathroom but no bath, decent sized bedroom with a queen bed.
Left the hotel, went across the road to a supermarket to get some water, then back to the hotel to get the umbrella. Over the road to buy the tickets to Sarajevo, then back to the hotel to get some more cash because they only took cash and cleaned us out. Into the bank next door to exchange some money, then back to the hotel because the passport was in the safe. So far we hadn't travelled more than 200m from the hotel.
Used Tripadvisor to find a seafood restaurant because we were both fed up with meat, asked at reception which bus to take and then waited at the wrong bus stop for 30 minutes. Got the bus, which was free. Well, it was for us because it was packed and we couldn't get near the driver to pay. Tracked our location on Google maps to make sure we knew when to get off and he started to go in a different direction so we got off in what looked like a dodgy area. Turned down a street which had several jewellery shops - once again Song managed to find them. Walked for about 10 minutes in the rain - the weather was appalling - and saw the Danube river, very wide.
Thankfully the restaurant was open (it was only 17:30), wasn't booked out, and had a table in the non smoking section. Although it was open so didn't really make that much difference. They were playing more of my favourite Serbian hits.
I had a local beer (of course), and ordered the seared tuna steak on a bed of potato and shard cabbage cooked in olive oil and lemon juice. Song had octopus and calamari also on a bed of potato and shard. We also had a cherry tomato and rocket salad.
Very very very good. 100 times better than the the meat platter we had yesterday.
Had Tiramasu for dessert, the meal cost about $60 .
Walked back to the main road to get the bus back to the hotel, but it was raining so decided to get a taxi instead.
A bit tired, watched TV and went to sleep, another day in Belgrade tomorrow.

Day 5 - Sofia to Nis

Set the alarm for 06:00 but didn't need it because we woke up at 05:30 again.
Packed up, then down to check out, breakfast started at 07:00 but we asked if we could pop down 10 minutes early because we had to be at the bus station at 07:15 but they wouldn't let us. The station was about a 10 minute walk so we were going to have to rush, and I don't like rushing. I wanted to skip breakfast but was overruled.
Grabbed a plate of the usual, shovelled it down then practically jogged to the station, made it with plenty of time to spare. The weather was grim - cold, grey, overcast and raining. We were very lucky to have the sun yesterday.
When Song first told me a couple of years ago that we would be travelling by bus in Eastern Europe I had visions of brown 1950's buses spewing diesel fumes, people smoking and carting goats and chickens in cages. In reality the coaches are comfortable, modern, reclining seats, toilets and wifi. One had a free coffee machine. We also like the fact that we can relax, read or watch TV, and see a lot of the country.
We drove out of the city, past lots of 1980s tower blocks that were a bit the worse for wear - rusty windows and balconies, crumbling concrete. Quite a few abandoned buildings as well.
Drove for about an hour and a half through fields and hills, not particularly spectacular, then came to a long queue of trucks - Bulgarian border control. Sat in the bus for about an hour, then got off, passport checked, back on the bus then on our way. For about 100 meters before we stopped again for Serbian border control. Luckily it was only about 10 minutes because there were only 4 other people on the bus.
Drove through fields for a while then through a gorge, sheer rock faces either side and a river along the bottom. It was still raining and the hills were covered in cloud.
After about another hour and a half we arrived in Nis.
Stepped off the bus and were greeted with a smell of burning plastic and a general chemical aroma.
Walked about 20 minutes to the hotel. Song decided to give the roll I'd bought yesterday to a stray dog, having already given hers to another stray at border control. There are quite a few stray dogs around.
Checked in then headed out in the light rain and pollution to get some food and have a look around. We only stopped here so we wouldn't have to do 8 hours on the bus so didn't expect much in the way of things to see - one of the 'attractions' according to Tripadvisor was a nazi concentration camp. Thought we'd give that a miss.
Stopped for a coffee that cost $1.70, then found the number 2 place in Nis to eat; we always try to eat the local food. I had my first beer, a local one called Lav that cost less than the coffee - $1.60 for half a litre. Song ordered fish chowder to start, and we ordered a meat platter to share. We also had a couple of bread rolls and a Serbian salad.
The meat platter was huge - 3 different types of sausages, pork wrapped in bacon, ham and skewers. It also wasn't very nice. We ate about half and took the rest with us, Song wanted to feed more of the stray dogs.
The meal only cost about $20 though. Serbia (and most Eastern European countries) still allow smoking in restaurants, and most people smoke. It's pretty disgusting, and we passed several restaurants looking to see if there were any free of smokers but there were none. It was a relief to go back outside to the cold and wet.
One of the local attractions was a tower embedded with human skulls. Thinking that's something you don't see every day we decided to pay it a visit. Even though it was still raining we decided to walk, it took about half an hour. It was a tower embedded with human skulls.
Hopped on a bus back to visit the other attraction, the fortress. It was basically a gate and some old ruins out in the open and filled with rubbish.
If you ever visit this area and are thinking of visiting Nis, I highly recommend not doing so, go somewhere else.
At least our hotel was good - king size bed, modern, spa bath etc.
Tomorrow is back on a bus and onto Belgrade - we read that there have been protests there. Hopefully we'll avoid them.

Day 4 - Sofia

Woke up early again, 05:30, jet lag still hanging around. Opened the curtains and looked out at the magnificent view of rusty corrugated iron roofs and a scrapyard.
Down to breakfast at about 09:00, lots of people.
Filled up with the usual - toast, bacon, sausages, egg, yoghurt, orange juice and coffee.
Google said the temperature was 8c and would probably rain, a big difference from Doha, so wrapped up. Walked to the bus station to book for tomorrow, into the main bus station and asked at information about where to book for our leg to Serbia the next day. The woman clearly hadn't expected to have to actually answer a question and just said 'next building' and went back to reading her magazine.
The 'next building' consisted of about 50 small bus companies so we went door to door asking 'Nis, Serbia?'. 'No Nis'. 'Which company goes to Nis?' 'I don't know'. Repeated until we found one who did go, but only 07:30 (a bit early) or 16:00 (too late). Plus she had keys in her hand and obviously didn't want to hang around. We said we'd think about it and come back. Found another one that left at 09:00 which was perfect. 'Tomorrow?'. 'No tomorrow.' 'Who else goes to Nis?'. 'I don't know.'
So we sat down and waited for the miserable woman to come back. Actually they were all miserable, I don't know why, I am perfectly charming.
Booked the bus, then back to the hotel to drop off our jackets because although it was now about 14c the sun was out and it was quite warm.
Walked down one of the main streets, the pavement and a lot of the buildings needed repairs. Found ourselves in a street full of jewellery shops - I'm sure Song has some kind of radar.
Kept going, came across a mosque and some ancient buildings that were only unearthed in 2011 when they started to build a new metro station. Sofia has a long history - the Greeks, Romans and Ottomans were here.
Headed towards the main attraction of Sofia, the cathedral, when Song saw a crowd of people across the road. This is usually a sign of something interesting, and in this case it was the changing of the guard outside the Presidency building. There were about 20 guards in red ceremonial uniforms with white braid, hats with a single feather, carrying swords and rifles. There was much shouting of orders, unsheathing and re sheathing of swords, banging of drums and blowing of trumpet, marching round in circles, guards shouting at each other, and twirling of rifles. To be honest it would have been easy for someone to sneak in while everyone was distracted. It went on for about 30 minutes whereupon they all marched off. We saw them a minute later getting on a bus and standing around smoking, it sort of killed the spectacle.
Wandered off and came across a park with some souvenir stands and a hotdog stand. We each had one, pretty average. Song bought the obligatory fridge magnet. There was also a piano, and 2 young blokes were playing classical music. Very pleasant to stand there in the sun listening to it - one of them was very good.
Popped over the road to a coffee shop (only $2.50!) and relaxed for a while before going on.
Walked back through the park, lots of people sitting enjoying the weather, then onto the cathedral. Walked around it taking photos of the unusual design and golden domes, and paid $8 to look around the museum which was just loads of religious paintings on wood. If we had known we wouldn't have bothered, but it didn't cost much. Whizzed around pretty quickly but sat down for a while so that the woman on the desk wouldn't wonder why we didn't spend longer inside, then up into the church itself.
I have to say it was much more impressive from the outside - inside was empty, there were frescoes on the walls and ceilings but in need of restoration. You had to pay to take photos but we decided against it.
Didn't spend long, then outside where there was a flea market selling all sorts of junk; old cigarette lighters and second hand pipes (who would buy those?), Lionel Ritchie LPs, Russian medals and a disconcerting amount of Nazi memorabilia. We didn't buy anything, surprisingly.
The weather turned, suddenly cloudy and cold, reminding me of Melbourne, and started to rain. We headed back the way we came, heading to a shopping mall, when it started to rain heavier so we thought we'd take the metro - always an adventure in a foreign country. It was only one stop so didn't think we'd have too much trouble. The first thing I did wrong was to go to the wrong line. Then I put the ticket in the gate and tried to go through the wrong side. A local took pity on me and told me what to do. I think the trick is to watch the natives and follow their lead.
Got out and the rain was coming down heavier. Luckily we'd brought an umbrella. Unluckily we'd left it back in the hotel.
The mall was only round the corner so we braved it, got a bit wet but were soon sat at another cafe in the warm.
We were pleasantly surprised with Sofia - although not a lot to see, the place itself is clean, the people are well dressed. Unlike a lot of the Eastern European countries we've visited there was very little graffiti, far less than Melbourne, and our economic measure of how a country is doing is to look at the cars - on a whole pretty good - Mercedes, BMW, Porsche, Audi - all were present. The others were generally in good condition and relatively new.
There are old, boarded up buildings, and some vacant land with rubbish, but not as many as we saw in places like Bucharest and Lisbon a few years ago.
Strolled back to the hotel, stopped off at market to get some food for the bus trip. Neither of us was hungry so skipped dinner. Watched TV then slept, tomorrow Serbia.

Day 3 - Doha to Sofia

Woke up around 5, read the news and pottered around a bit then went downstairs to breakfast. If you've read my blog before you will know that I do like a hotel breakfast.
Knowing that I tend to put on weight when we travel I decided to restrict myself to just fruit and vegetables. I started with 2 slices of toast and marmalade (oranges) , muesli (had apple, banana, strawberry in it) , orange juice, coffee (not food, doesn't count).
That was round 1.
Next was baked beans, sausages and 'beef bacon' because they don't eat pig here. Cows eat grass, and that's sort of a vegetable, so I figured that was ok.
Then had a fruit platter - watermelon, papaya, orange and pineapple.
Thought about finishing off with an apple danish but didn't want to spoil my dedication to the healthy routine so resisted.
2 of the hotel staff very kindly helped lift me out of my chair, then we got ready to head to the airport.
The plane was full, but the flight was only 5 hours so it went quickly. Every one on the plane seemed to know each other and there were lots of people standing up chatting and drinking.
Sped through passport control (UK passport, but won't be so easy in a couple of years) into the cold - 15c.
I'd read on Tripadvisor that there are fake taxis in Bulgaria so you have to visit the desk in the airport to make sure it's the proper one. I think the fake ones just overcharge and don't drive you to the middle of nowhere and rob you. So hopefully the one we booked at the desk was a real one. It does make you wonder why the police or the real taxi drivers don't do anything about it.
Luckily our taxi took us to our hotel but did warn us not to walk around at night because it wasn't safe, and also told us about the fake taxis.
The hotel was clean and the room big, although it was only a double bed.
Neither of us was hungry and we didn't fancy getting mugged, so just watched TV and went to bed.
Tomorrow we're doing the tourist bit.

Day 2 - Doha

Jet lag got the better of us and we ended up going to sleep at about 19:00, so consequently woke up at around 04:00. Read the internet for a while and watched some TV, then got ready and headed out to the Souk which opened at 07:30.
Hopped in a taxi, got told the Souk didn’t open till 09:00 but decided to go anyway because we needed breakfast.
Most places were just opening but found a hotel that looked decent and had the options of Qatari breakfast, Middle Eastern breakfast and American breakfast. As we consider ourselves reasonably adventurous Song had the Qatari one and I had the Middle Eastern one, although I swapped the Turkish coffee for a cappuccino because I don't like strong coffee.
My breakfast had 2 pieces of very salty cheese, 3 salty falafels, a salty bean and chickpea dish, hummus with flat bread, and 2 boiled eggs. Ah well, that's what happens when you try something new sometimes. Luckily the coffee wasn't salty, but it wasn't very good either.
Song's breakfast was a bed of vermicelli noodles with scrambled egg on top (not what we expected), carrot and cucumber sticks and a yogurt dip, chickpeas and some small pancakes with a sweet filling.
Cost was about $26 - pretty good for right next to the main tourist place.
Souk was open, had a wander through, didn't buy anything. The smell of the spices hit us as soon as we entered. There weren't many people around, maybe it was a bit early. The Souk seemed to be divided up into sections - the incense sellers, the cloth sellers, shoe sellers etc. After about 30 minutes more people appeared. It's not a huge place, so we left, although did pick up a fridge magnet of a camel. Walked over the road to the Corniche, the promenade along the bay, intending to go for a walk, but decided to go to the museum of Islamic art instead because it was starting to get a bit hot, probably around 30c.
The museum is very interesting - we watched a documentary a few years ago about the construction. The architect was 91 at the time, a famous (among architects I suppose) American Chinese, called I. M. Pei. He spent 6 months travelling and learning about Islam so he could incorporate the themes. Go and look at the photos, it's a fascinating place and at the time of the documentary we didn't have any intention of visiting.
Before we went through the museum , we sat down to relax and charge the batteries, looking out over the bay to the city. Oh, and the museum was free.
We sat in the cafe for a while - air conditioned, free wifi, comfortable sofa - just relaxing and enjoying the start of the holiday.
Went around the museum - lots of carpets, some over 500 years old, with Islamic designs and motifs, pots, glassware, jewellery etc. Quite interesting although a bit samey to be honest.
After a couple of hours popped back to the cafe to sit down, used the free wifi and then back to the Souk, although Song said we weren't buying anything.
It was a lot cooler now, with a pleasant breeze. There were more people around as well - obviously the cooler conditions brought them out, and the cafes were packed, the locals sitting and smoking from hookahs. Most of the women wear the burkha, with just their eyes showing. All were black, and we both wondered how they coped in summer.
Song bought some scarves and it was interesting to watch a Chinese woman haggle with a Souk trader - the irresistible force meeting the immovable object. After much too-ing and fro-ing, stamping of feet, insults in Arabic and Chinese, they eventually agreed on the price for 3. Song was happy she'd stiffed the shopkeeper and he was happy he'd ripped off another tourist, so the natural order of things was maintained. We carried on, visited the spice area where Song bought some dried hibiscus flowers (500g) to make tea. Went a bit further and Song saw a shop selling pearl jewellery, so she bought a pair of earrings. Glad we decided not to buy anything.
Starting to feel a bit peckish, headed along the street to where the restaurants were and decided on a seafood place. I had a fattoush salad and a fish tandoori. Song had a mixed seafood platter.
Bad food choice day today. Mine was very bland - a few pieces of dry fish and rice. Song said hers was fried in a sauce like sweet and sour. Some you win, some you lose. Cost was about $56 which wasn't extortionate but not worth it for the quality.
It was now dark and we went for a walk towards the corniche since it was cooler and the city was lit up. On the way through the Souk, which was now packed, there was a strolling band - men beating drums and one guy playing a goat skin like the bagpipes and occasionally breaking into song. Lots of people taking photos as they wandered past. Carried on a bit further and there was another large group of men playing drums and pipes and singing and dancing, with a lead singer on a microphone and a large crowd of people watching. It was very pleasant, a great atmosphere and an example of what we see wherever we travel - most people just want to get on with their lives and have a good time now and then.
Hopped in a taxi, fought through appalling traffic (something else we see everywhere), where every driver appeared to have got a new car horn and was trying it out. The drivers were some of the worst I've seen - no courtesy, pushing in, leaning on the horn, going through red lights, and driving across the kerbs to take short cuts. At one stage there was a Lamborghini next to us, and I thought there's a waste of money. It took us 45 minutes to go 3.8 km.
Finally arrived at the hotel, watched some TV, then sleep.
Tomorrow we fly to Sofia in Bulgaria for the main bit of the trip, a 5 hour flight, so not too bad.

Day 1 - Melbourne to Doha

I think it's the first time we've had a night flight from Melbourne so hopefully I'll be able to sleep.
Swiftly through security and immigration although we were late boarding for some reason.
We'd booked seats, 2 aisle next to each other so it was a bit of a lottery as to the person I'd get sitting next to me.
A rather large lady was my companion for the next 14 hours and it appeared she decided she'd paid for her seat and half of mine. She was also unable to keep still and was constantly elbowing me. I just hoped she would sleep. There was a middle aged guy by the window, he sat down and didn't move for about 10 hours.
The food took ages to come out, it seemed they'd waited until everyone was about to pass out before they served it. We'd pre-ordered, I had Thai beef salad and Song had fish. Mine was quite nice.
After supper (served at about 01:30) I put my earphones on, spent 10 minutes creating a play list then waited for my neighbour to finish organising herself - she took her shoes off, pulled out 2 blankets, earphones, hairnet, hand cream, and finally she was set.
I actually slept pretty well, not constant but would wake up and find I'd missed a load of the music so must have been asleep for a while.
Luckily neither of the other 2 in my row had weak bladders and hardly got up at all.
At one stage I woke up with a headache which got progressively worse - I can't remember the last time I had such a bad one. I even felt sick, and I don't think I've ever been sick on a flight. I was so bad I refused the hot breakfast and had fruit. Took a couple of panadol and it went after a while, but not before I seriously contemplated booking business class next time.
I didn't watch any movies (Song saw 5), got near to the end of The Matrix then we were on the approach to Dubai so packed my gear away.
We had a 4 hour layover in Dubai, then on to Doha, but tried to see if we could get an earlier flight.
Off the plane, asked about our connecting flight and were put on a bus. Took a trip around the airport, told to get off the bus, through security into what looked like the old terminal because it was a bit low-rent; pretty average shops. Asked about our connecting flight at information and were told to go back to where we just got off the bus to get on a bus to get to the other terminal. Very disorganised - we're flying Qatar Airlines and it seems that anything not Emirates is second class here.
We had hoped to see if we could get an earlier flight to save us the 4 hour layover but that looked increasingly unlikely as we sat waiting for a bus to the terminal.
Bus arrived, guy announced it was for terminal 1 and 2 but I still asked if it was Qatar because I didn't trust them.
On the bus again, another trip around the airport to a deserted terminal. Wandered around and saw some people, through security again and checked in. No chance of getting the earlier flight anyway because it was taking off as we checked in.
Found the shops and cafes and sat down, I took out a small can of coke from my bag that I took from the plane. Which I had just taken through 2 security checkpoints. Not exactly confidence inspiring.
Cleaned up a bit then went for a wander around the shops looking at stuff we can't afford.
Sat down again, neither of us hungry so didn't bother going to one of the cafes but nibbled on some snacks we'd brought along for just such an occasion.
The flight to Doha was just an hour, we're staying for 2 nights to break up the first leg. Flight was fine, very short, then into the immigration queue for about 40 minutes. Had to pay for a visa and I considered refusing on principal but the guy was pretty grumpy so didn't want to annoy him. We'd now been travelling for 24 hours so were ready for a shower and some food served on a plate instead of out of a packet. Got the courtesy shuttle bus to the hotel, but the room wasn't ready. Put on my sad face and the receptionist said we could use the showers in the swimming pool area. It was either the sad face or the smell that convinced her.
Decided to get something to eat. Looked at trip advisor but there was nothing decent nearby. Wandered around the hotel but most of the restaurants didn’t open till 18:00 and the prices were steep, but beggars can't be choosers and we ended up at one of them. Song had a club sandwich and I had chicken curry. I was pleasantly surprised - it was really good, very impressed. Mine cost about $25 aud which was pretty good, although I also put on about 2kg. I took a photo and put it on instagram only to accidentally delete it 4 seconds later.
The room was finally ready so we collapsed and tried not to go to sleep too early, watched tv I'd downloaded.
Tomorrow we're visiting the Souk - a traditional shopping mall.