Day 31 - Last Day - Paris

The last week we've been able to get up when we felt like it, generally around 0830. Another beautiful day,  left the jackets behind and walked to the Louvre via the Opera. Walked along a street that had all the top brands and some so exclusive I'd never heard of them.  I had to peel Song off the windows of some of the jewellers, then we stopped for a (Starbucks again) coffee.
Didn't go into the Louvre, we've been a few times and it takes at least a day to do it justice, went on to the Palais Royale next door where there was a large garden with a fountain, trees, benches and seats with people reading or just sitting enjoying the weather - this is what I love about Paris, there are huge open spaces and gardens everywhere, it's not as cramped as London. I don't think I'll ever tire of coming to Paris - every time we have a great time, it's such a beautiful city, the buildings are imposing and decorative, the art galleries and museums extensive and the food out of this world.
Walked through the Louvre courtyard and onto the Pont D'Arts, then headed to a restaurant we visited last time we were here just near the Luxembourg Gardens called La Maison du Jardin. If you come to Paris I'd recommend it. It was full of old French people which I took as a good sign. I ordered snails in a garlic broth (how French is that?) because I can't remember having had snails before. Song ordered rabbit pate. The snails were nice, no real taste except of garlic, and a texture like calamari. Song didn't like her pate much. For main I ordered the lamb in filo pastry - the same thing I had 3 years ago. Song ordered - wait for it - cod. I also ordered a large glass of Bordeaux, which turned out to be about half a bottle so by the end of the meal I was a bit tipsy. The lamb was cooked for seven hours, and was fantastic. Song said her fish was nice. Song noticed someone had brought a dog into the restaurant, something we'd also seen in Nancy. I do like dogs, but I'm not too sure I'm keen on them in restaurants.
We decided against a dessert, so paid up and went walking again, round the corner to the Luxembourg Gardens. It felt like it was over 20C, and everywhere people were sitting in the sun, reading, eating lunch or chatting with friends, kids playing games, hundreds just enjoying life. So we joined them, sat on a bench for a while watching the world go by. I highly recommend it.
Carried on, looking for a patisserie because I fancied a cake but after a while just decided to go to a cafe and have a tea and coffee - they do like their coffee strong here.
Walked all the way back again, according to Google fit I walked just under 23000 steps and it certainly felt like it - my feet and calves were aching. We grabbed a couple of baguettes from a Paul's bakery for dinner, we didn't fancy a big meal.
Back to the hotel, packed up, we fly out tomorrow afternoon.
So that's it for the first leg of Andy and Song's epic journey around the world. A couple of weeks back in Melbourne and then off on the second leg to Canada and the US.

Day 30 - Paris

Woke up to a perfect day, sun shining and not a cloud in the sky, about 7C.
Grabbed a coffee from Starbucks (I know, sacrilege for a Melburnian, but local coffee is too strong), then walked 20 minutes to Sacre Coeur - another church. Climbed the 196 steps (I counted them) and arrived at the top next to the funicular station. Oh well, I needed the exercise. We weren't there for the church per se, but the view over Paris because it's at the top of a hill. Took photos and went into the church anyway. Walked around the corner to the square where we were accosted by several artists offering to sketch us but we declined. We called in at a cafe to have crepes - I had one with fruit and Song chose chocolate and banana which was a bit of a role reversal, but we swapped half each.
Carried on walking for a while then found a Paul's bakery so stopped for lunch. Song had a tuna roll (fish!) and I had a pizza slice that looked better than it tasted.
Walked back to the hotel for a pit stop then walked to Galleries Lafayette, a department store, but similar to Harrods in London. As soon as we entered we encountered a sea of Chinese people - literally hundreds. They were all there buying tax free goods and weighed down with Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Gucci bags.
Bought some gear ourselves - we really went to town and bought 8 place mats from the souvenir shop!
Carried on, visited the Uniqlo shop where Song spent an hour picking up and trying every jumper there until deciding she didn't like any and they were cheaper in Australia anyway.
Took the metro to the Champs-Elysees, walked up one side and down the other, dodging all the other tourists. The weather was still perfect - sunny, and we'd left our jackets in the hotel because it was warm.
Song popped into a shop for a look and came out with 2 handbags.
Starting to feel tired, headed back to the hotel area to get dinner. Checked Tripadvisor and set off for a restaurant but couldn't find it so just went into one that looked ok and had a few people inside. We seem to have started a trend, because about 12 people came in within about 10 minutes.
We both ordered duck fois gras to start (very nice), I went for beef bourginion for main and Song had - shockingly - sausage. The beef bourginion was excellent. I had one in Iceland that was good and one in Brugges that was average but this one reminded me I was in France and they invented it. 2 large pieces of tender beef, a superb gravy with mushrooms and bacon in a pot , with a plate of creamy mashed potato.
Song said her sausage was good but I was too busy enjoying mine to listen. I also had a glass of red wine.
For dessert I had chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream, Song had ice cream with grand marnier but couldn't eat it all so I had to finish it off. What a terrible thing to have to do.
Total cost was about $100 and worth every cent. Luckily the restaurant had a small crane to help me get up out of my seat, then we waddled up the road to the hotel, each carrying a few extra kilos, and squeezed into the lift, collapsed on the bed and tried not to move.
Tomorrow is more walking and sight seeing around The Louvre area.

Day 29 - Nancy to Paris

Up, walk, train, metro, walk, hotel. Train journey was good, on the TGV which is the fast train, hurtling through the French countryside. Kept a close eye on the bags and pockets on the metro because last time some guy stuck his hand in my pocket, but luckily didn't get anything. Came out of the metro and the Moulin Rouge was in front of us. A short walk to the hotel which is the 4th most popular in Paris, not too expensive and really good - staff are really helpful and even played the Australian and English national anthem as we checked in. I kid you not. It's called Joke hotel. The room was small but very well designed and very trendy. We'll definitely stay again. The mini bar was free (although only had water and soft drinks) and they also had free food and drink in the lobby.
We dropped the bags and went out, intending to go shopping but it was Sunday and most are closed. Decided instead to walk around a cemetery. Not just any cemetery, but Père Lachaise, where loads of famous people are buried. We spent about 3 hours there and saw dead people. Moliere, Bizet, Pissaro, Chopin, many others and probably the most famous - Jim Morrison. It was quite busy, and is said to be the most visited cemetery in the world. We saw a crowd around one grave and had a look - it was one of the Charlie Hebdo cartoonists. The cemetery is not very well laid out and we looked for, but didn't find, a few others.
We'd walked a lot, so decided to head back to the hotel area and go to a restaurant we'd passed earlier, but when we got there it was closed, as we're all of them, and so we had to go back to the hotel and wait for about half an hour.
Wandered down to the restaurant where I had a lobster bisque for starter and then steak (I ordered it medium and it came out rare but I'm too timid to complain), Song had fois gras to start and *sigh* sea bass for main. I also had a glass of wine. Both meals were good, not great.
Walked up the road to the Moulin Rouge and took some photos, saw that it was 125 Euro per person to get in and decided against it. I'm sure it's a spectacle but I can download the movie for nothing.
Back to the hotel to relax.
Tomorrow is the Sacre Coeur and some more wandering with a bit of shopping thrown in. We're here for 3 nights, not 2, so 2 more full days in what I think is our favourite city.

Day 28 - Metz to Nancy

Another good sleep but woke up to a wet, cold day. Went for another walk around Metz, calling in on another church we passed, then to what is thought to be the oldest church in France, dating from the forth century. Stopped in at a Paul's for another non standard breakfast, I had coffee (I asked for white coffee and it just scraped by, it was very strong) and an apple tart, Song had a blueberry tart. We went back to the cathedral because Song did some reading and wanted to have another look. Reading this you may think we're on some religious pilgrimage, but we just find European churches interesting - some amazing architecture, paintings, carvings and history.
The rain stopped and the sun came out, took more photos then back to the hotel to pick up the bags, then onto the station to get the train to Nancy. I tried the machines but they rejected the credit cards which wasn't a good sign, and had to queue up in the world's slowest moving queue to buy the tickets. Probably just as well because I nearly bought tickets to Nantes which is on the west coast. It was while in the queue that I had another one of my (many) brilliant ideas. I call it Citypacks. Say you're travelling to Melbourne - you go on a website and you order a pack for the city that includes a map, a directory of things to do and places to eat, maybe vouchers, a Myki card loaded with credit, a local pre loaded sim card etc. Instructions on how the local travel works because everywhere is different - for example, in Melbourne, prepare to be held down by 5 ticket inspectors and beaten up if you don't have a Myki. In Romania and Russia don't hail a cab in the street unless you want to be driven to the middle of nowhere and robbed. In Marrakech don't take up the offer of kids who say they'll show you the way, unless you want to be taken to the middle of nowhere etc.
Anyway, hopped on the train to Nancy, and got told by the conductor that we should have validated the tickets in a machine before getting on. If only I'd ordered a Citypack, I would have known this.
Got to Nancy, walked about 15 minutes to the hotel then out and about again. It started to rain so I had to go back to the hotel to grab the umbrella. Wandered the streets, came across an impressive gate (took photos of course), then continued with no destination in mind. Found a pleasant park, then came across the main square - Place de Stanislaw. Each entrance was decorated with magnificent gates covered in gold paint, plus 2 had fountains. Carried on, found the main shopping street then went looking for somewhere to eat. We avoided the main square and headed back to the hotel area, but all the restaurants were closed - it appeared they only opened for lunch and dinner. Went back to the hotel for an hour or so and then back to a restaurant we passed earlier. I perused the menu, which was in French. Now I do speak a bit of French but I learnt it 40 years ago so I don't know how good it is, although I do seem to make myself understood. However, the menu had me a bit stumped, because I think the restaurant was geared around offal, and I am not a big fan. I think I saw head of veal and pig's trotters on the menu. I took a bit of a gamble and went for what I thought was lamb shank for me and smoked sausage with sauerkraut for Song. If mine turned up with eyes I may have decided to become a vegetarian on the spot. I asked if it came with potatoes and the waiter said yes, then added "pommes de terre sudhg griv frompf crudjus?" So I said yes please. I had no idea what he said. I later heard the waiter speaking English to another couple, so either my French was so good that I had him thinking I was a local, or he was amusing himself. Probably the latter.
Luckily the potatoes were very nice, as was the lamb. Song enjoyed her meal. For dessert we shared a plate of 5 local cheeses, again very good.
Meandered back to the hotel and relaxed.
Tomorrow we're off to Paris for 2 nights, then we fly home.

Day 27 - Metz

Had a good sleep, then out to look around Metz. Weather was chilly and threatened to rain. We found a cafe and had the standard French breakfast of coffee, croissant and orange juice but had hot chocolate instead of coffee because their machine was broken and had yoghurt instead of orange juice so it wasn't very standard after all.
Walked around the old city which was very pretty, lots of large buildings with ornate carvings, and then went into the cathedral. One of the most impressive ones we've visited (and we tend to go into churches and cathedrals because they tend to be very spectacular), it had amazing stained glass windows, including some by famous artists like Marc Chagall and Jacques Villon.
It was massive inside, and has one of the highest naves in the world.
Went out of the cathedral and into a market next door. Had a wander looking at all the tempting food, and then came out into the rain and I'd forgotten to bring the umbrella so went back in again. Once it had stopped went walking again and took more photos, then on to lunch. We happened to stumble upon the 5th best restaurant in the city. I had the set menu of salmon fritters and salad to start, cod on mashed potatoes and a cake pudding for dessert. Song had braised piglet cheeks on mash and the cheese platter for dessert - yes, I had fish and Song had meat. I also swapped my usual beer for a glass of wine - a merlot.
Both dishes were excellent, although a tad pricey for lunch. Still, we're now in France so want to eat well.
Staggered out of the restaurant and continued to wander - the sun had come out so we went back to the cathedral to take more photos. There was a guy standing outside the cathedral begging, and he had a better jacket than mine. Maybe I'm in the wrong business.
Carried walking around, the streets were very pretty, lots of alleys and imposing buildings. We ended up on the street we had breakfast on and it was getting a very busy, it appeared to be the main shopping street.
Feeling a bit tired, decided to head back to the hotel where we just relaxed, decided not to have dinner because of the large lunch.
Tomorrow we're off to Nantes.

Day 26 - Brugges to Metz

Got up, had breakfast then out for a bit of a walk. Song had remembered that there was a Michaelangelo sculpture in the cathedral around the corner so we went to see it - Madonna and Child.
Carried on walking, bought some chocolates and the streets were beginning to fill up again so we took the bus to the train station and settled in for the trip to Luxembourg - with a change at Lieges. The trip was pleasant, we followed a river most of the way and were in a valley. Song wanted to stop at Luxembourg - after the Panama papers were revealed we thought we'd better check on the mountains of cash we'd squirreled away. Not really - Song just wanted to see it, plus it's a country I'd been to that she hadn't and she's trying to catch up.
Pulling into Luxembourg was spectacular - the city is built on a hill and there were bridges and old city walls and castles all around. Dumped the bags at the station and went for a walk along the old walls with great views. The weather was nice, overcast but not cold. Followed a tour group because they seemed to know where they were going and ended up in the main square with lots of restaurants, so found one that looked decent and each had a pizza. I was going to have a beer but decided against it as I didn't want to exceed the weight allowance of the plane.
The pizzas were ok, quite nice. We headed back to the station to pick up the bags and on to Metz.

Day 25 - Dublin to Brugges

Up at 0445, on the bus to the airport and short flight to Amsterdam. I was impressed that we could change our flight so easily just the afternoon before.
The train from Amsterdam to Brugges  took about 3 hours with a change at Brussels. I like travelling by train - seats are comfortable, most have wifi and power points, toilets and food and drink, plus you get to see the country.
Arrived at the hotel and the room was very small, but most European city hotels are like that so we didn’t mind.
Dropped the bags and headed out. I'd been to Brugges about 30 years ago and as we walked around I started to remember it. It's a very pretty town, the main square has some impressive buildings and the whole place was delightful - lots of old buildings, very clean, quaint alleyways, and more chocolate shops than I have ever seen. We decided to wait until after dinner before buying chocolates but they were definitely on the agenda. We walked along the streets, a nice change of pace after the driving of the last few days. The weather was perfect - sunny and warm  -  Google said it was 17C but it felt warmer, probably after the wintry conditions in Ireland. It was hard to believe that just a few days ago we were  walking in a howling gale being pelted with freezing rain. We wandered around the streets, lots of tourists about, just enjoying the environment. We stopped at a restaurant around the corner from the main square. I had Flemish beef stew with apple sauce, salad and chips, Song had mussels. I also had a beer because I was no longer driving - a Leffe Bruin, which I think was the nicest I've had on this trip so far.
Left the restaurant and suddenly found the streets empty - we guessed all of the tourists were on day trips and were heading home because there were very few people around. We stopped for an ice cream despite the temperature dropping as the sun went down and went back to the hotel.
Tomorrow we're going to Luxembourg, then onto Metz in France.

Impressions of Ireland

Cold, wet and windy. Wet. Rainy. Lots of wind. Did I say cold?
I was very surprised that the weather in Ireland was worse than Iceland. I suspect if the sun ever came out the Irish people would wonder what it was and would probably start worshipping it.
Dublin was very busy, awful traffic and not really a lot to see. The drive through the countryside lived up to expectations - rolling hills, green fields with sheep, old abandoned buildings covered in ivy which fit with the landscape. I expected to see small villages, but there were lots of places with a few houses but no cafes or shops.
Galway was lovely - a real buzzing place, lots of people having fun, buskers, lots of cafes and restaurants.
Also liked Cork, we didn’t stay long but felt it had a nice atmosphere.
Some fantastic scenery that we discovered by accident, really amazing.
Overall a pleasant experience except for the appalling weather most of the time.

Day 24 - Wexford to Dublin

Filled up with the included breakfast and back into the car for the last time to drive back to Dublin.
Although Wexford is in the south and Dublin the north, it only takes about 2 hours to drive via the freeway, and since we'd seen Dublin decided to use the back roads to see more of the country. We stopped for a coffee in a small town that had a castle then continued on.
After about half an hour we were both a bit bored of the same hedges and fields and were still going to get to Dublin early so I looked at the map and decided to cut across the country through some hills.
This turned out to be a great idea because the scenery was amazing - almost like Iceland.
We drove along the top of the hills on a small road which I think was the most isolated I've ever been on. We saw a few cars but for the most part we were the only ones on the road. The landscape was as if it were another country - similar to moorland and vast, with hills all around.
We stopped for another coffee and scones in a small town, I checked the map again and set off along another minor road. We soon came across a waterfall pouring into a valley. Truly spectacular. I think we saw the best scenery in Ireland just by chance.
Finally drove out of the hills and headed to the airport to drop off the car, then went to get the Aer Lingus desk to see if we could change our flight. Brussels airport was running a limited service so we couldn't change the time, but we were able to switch the flight to Amsterdam and leave in the morning. This would save us having to spend another day in Dublin and get the train to Bruges from Amsterdam, giving us some time in Bruges.
Got to the bus station and saw our courtesy bus waiting so hopped on and got to the hotel in 5 minutes. Looked at the hotel name, then at the booking and realised it was the wrong hotel. Ours was Clayton, we were at the Carlton. Close but no cigar. Got back on the bus to the airport then got on the right one.
Song wasn't hungry so didn't want dinner but I was so went to the hotel restaurant and had a burger plus a pint of Guinness - trying to bring Australia up in the rankings.
Getting up very early tomorrow to fly to Amsterdam, then on a train to Bruges.

Day 23 - Cork to Wexford

Woke up refreshed, packed up and headed to Cork city (we stayed just outside), stopped for a very nice breakfast in a small trendy cafe. I had porridge with honey and banana and Song had Granola, whatever the hell that is. We were heading for the English market, one of the sights of Cork. We came across a small group of people who were clearly agitated and were pointing at the sky. There was a blue area amid the grey, and an old man said "I remember the great blue patch of 1965. It lasted for nearly 10 minutes. I didn’t think I'd live to see it again. Many witches were burned that day".
Carried on around the town, found it very nice, small alleys full of cafes and shops, clean and friendly. Found the market which was also nice but small.
Walked back to the car then on to Blarney Castle. I liked Cork, even though we didn't stay long it seemed pleasant.
Blarney Castle was nice, there were gardens with rivers and the setting was wonderful. We climbed up the narrow spiral stairs up to the top and had a great view of the area. We decided not to kiss the blarney stone, and climbed back down. As we walked through the gardens a miracle happened - the sun came out! I even took off my jacket. The locals were cheering and hugging each other.
Back in the car and did a bit of a backtrack to the Rock of Cashel, another castle. Only took about 40 minutes up the freeway, but as we got closer the clouds came in and the rain started.
Got to the castle which was impressive, but unfortunately there were renovations going on and a lot of it was covered in scaffolding. Took photos then found a place for a sandwich for lunch. Passed through Tipperary on the way to Waterford - I didn’t know it was a long way to Tipperary - and arrived in Waterford. Walked up and down the high street, not a lot to see, then back to the car and onto Wexford where we stopped for the night. Drove into town for dinner around some back roads and saw some magnificent homes - long, tree lined driveways, large grounds and huge houses - I'd noticed this before, on the outskirts of towns there tended to be these large properties. We parked in the city and found the 3rd best place in Wexford, called The Yard. I had cod with ratatouille and roast potatoes, Song had Monkish with cous cous. I'm beginning to worry that she'll develop gills.
Went back to the hotel, back to Dublin tomorrow.

Day 22 - Galway to Cork

We were staying at one of those corporate hotel chains that cater for travelling business people so it was pretty average. However, the one saving grace is that they usually have a good breakfast spread, and this one did. I had bacon, sausage and baked beans. Then toast. Then yogurt. Then a fruit smoothie. Then a croissant. And orange juice. And coffee. As I was drinking the frankly diabolically crap coffee I had one of my (many) brilliant ideas - these hotels should buy a proper cafe coffee machine and train some staff to be barristas. No more of the drip, filtered rubbish, but a cup made properly.
We popped back into Galway to see the famous Bay (and took photos of course), then hit the road to the Cliffs of Moher.
It wasn't far, but it was along country roads and the coast road so took a bit of time. The weather was typical of the Irish weather we've come to expect - cold, raining and windy. The scenery was very nice, we stopped off at a small castle, and followed the narrow coast road, Song taking photos out of the window and me driving and trying to avoid being collected by one of the many tourist coaches.
Eventually arrived, parked the car and stepped out into a howling wind and light rain. Song opened the car door and a bag blew out and I had to chase it across the car park, which wasn't too bad with the wind behind me, but turning round and heading back to the car was hard work.
We walked over to the cliffs, the wind pushing us along, and onto the path along the cliff. The wind was so strong that the rain felt like needles against the face, and it was bloody freezing. The car said the temperature was 4C, but with the wind I'm certain it was below zero. We struggled along the path, taking photos, but I had to stop after a few minutes because my hands got numb. We turned around and headed off along another path, braving the elements. We got to the top of the other side and took photos but I'd had enough so we went back to the visitors centre. This time we were walking into the wind, and we had to struggle - head down, hands in pockets, fighting the wind. We passed an old guy who I think was insane - he was busking with an accordion. He was huddled against the wall, his instrument covered in a plastic bag trying to be heard over the wind. Song gave him some money for his sheer bravery.
The cliffs were impressive, very imposing, but as with the Giant's Causeway, I think I would have enjoyed it more if the weather was better.
We carried on to the centre, and I was thinking if the coffee machine was broken I'd cry.
Staggered into the warmth and quiet of the centre, found a seat and had a nice hot drink and an apple pie for good measure. After preparing for the epic journey back to the car, we set off again.
We both agreed these were the worst weather conditions we've ever experienced.
Back in the car with the heater turned up full, we thawed out and carried on to Cork, passing through Limerick with a quick look at King James Castle. We continued along the country roads, the scenery as I expected and delightful - stone walls, green fields and the occasional abandoned house covered in ivy. At one stage we turned a corner and saw 3 snow capped mountains. We eventually got to Cork at around 1730.
We're usually quite hardy and don't let the weather get in the way of what we want to do, but after dropping the bags in the hotel room and looking outside at the rain, and listening to the wind, we didn’t fancy going out, driving to the city, parking and trying to find somewhere to eat, so just went to the hotel restaurant. I had beef brisket followed by pork belly with mash, pureed carrot and gravy, and then apple crumble. Song had a caesar salad, the pork belly, and cheesecake for dessert. It was reasonably priced for a hotel and very  nice. I also decided that since I wasn't driving I would have a beer, and finally succumbed and ordered a pint of Guinness. It was a lot nicer than I remembered. Here's a trivia question - which country is the second largest consumer of Guinness? No. No. Nope. Nigeria. Ireland is number 3. UK is number 1 (yay for the alcoholic Brits).
Suitably stuffed, went back to the room without having to step outside and relaxed. Off to Wexford via the Rock of Cashel tomorrow. Let's hope the weather improves, because I don't think it could be worse.