Day 12- Brasov and Bran Castle

Another decent breakfast spread, then out to our first rainy day. Temperature was about 6C, so a miserable day but we never worry about the weather because there's nothing we can do about it. We walked about 2 minutes to the Black Church but the guy said it didn't open till 10 so wouldn't let us in. It was 09:55. Didn't want to wait in the rain so went round the corner and had a coffee. Walked down the main shopping street and took a cab to the bus station to go to Bran Castle. The bus had enough crucifixes and pictures of Jesus stuck on the windscreen for the driver to open his own church, and it was a wonder he could see out. The trip took about 40 minutes and when we got there it was even colder and still raining.
The castle wasn't huge but sat upon some rock and looked imposing. Walked up the hill keeping ahead of a tour group and explored the castle. It was full of labyrinthine corridors and staircases, and pretty spartan inside. I don't think it would have been particularly comfortable to live there. There were lots of items about Dracula, and I knew that the story was loosely based on Vlad the Impaler by Bram Stoker, but I didn't know what link the castle has. As far as I could make out, Stoker made him come from Transylvania and this is a castle in Transylvania so that's the link.
It was quite interesting, we spent about an hour inside then back down the hill to the bus back to Brasov.
Went into the Black Church and wasn't impressed - not as impressive or interesting as others we've visited, and were only in there for about 5 minutes. Back out into the cold and looked for somewhere to eat. They still allow smoking inside restaurants in Romania, so we went into a couple and immediately walked out if it was too overpowering. Found an Irish pub that had a separate non smoking area which was bearable, but it had two important aspects - warmth and wifi. I ordered a burger, Song had sausages and mashed potatoes.
Took a cab to the train station only to find the train we intended to take was delayed so bought tickets for the next available which was an hour and twenty minutes away. Luckily there was a shopping mall over the road so we went there and had a coffee and used the wifi until time to get the train.
Back to the same hotel in Bucharest as before and sleep, up at 05:00 for the flight to Prague.
Walked 8.88 Km today.

Day 11 - Bucharest

Down to the biggest breakfast buffet I've seen for a long time, so filled up and headed out. Glorious day, sun shining and about 19C. Ambled up the road to Victory Square (I think every East European capital has to have one), which was a large area with some big square buildings but not particularly noteworthy. Walked around a park for a bit then set off for the old town down Victory Street which the hotel receptionist said was a nice walk. His definition of nice is different to mine because it was pretty grotty, lined with grand houses that were in disrepair and crumbling. I think whenever there was a sniff of revolution the rich owners ran away and abandoned them. However, soon we came to the posh part - Hilton hotel and upmarket shops. We also found the number one attraction in Bucharest, the Athenaeum. But it was closed on Mondays so only managed to take photos from outside. Carried on down the road and spotted a Paul's patisserie - a French chain we always visit when in France, so popped in for a coffee and cake. A lot of the buildings around had Art Nouveau features and were very impressive.
Found the old town, a pedestrianized area with cobbled streets and quaint buildings, and wall to wall bars and restaurants with tables set up outside. The sun was shining and I was very tempted to sit down and have a beer but we were pressed for time so took some photos and walked around a bit. The area is definitely more pleasant than the surrounding streets and geared up to tourists and young people.
Hopped on a metro train back to the hotel, then got off at the next stop having got on the wrong train - the first misstep of the trip so far. Picked up some gear from the hotel and went to the main station and the train to Brasov. Pulling out of the station and seeing lots of graffiti reminded me that we had seen none in Istanbul or Greece. The train had a power point so settled in to watch some downloads and look at the views.
The train was the fast one, which I think meant that it didn't stop at as many stations because it didn't go very fast. The train made its way through the mountains, through villages that had seen better days, and with snow still on the ground. I've just read that Brasov is in Transylvania, and it's a full moon tonight! No, wait, that's Werewolves, so we should be ok. I'll make Song sleep near the window just in case.
Arrived at Brasov around 20:00, wasn't as cold as we expected, but decided to stay in and look around tomorrow.
Walked 12.74 km today.

Day 10 - Athens

Early start again; up at 04:30, airport at 05:30, flight at 06:30, landed at 07:30. Popped over the road to the airport hotel to see how much it would cost to stay there for the day but it was pricey and we couldn't check in till 12:00 so took the train to the city.
We were feeling pretty hungry so found a nice cafe and ordered a big breakfast. We were there for quite a while, so ordered an extra coffee so as not to feel guilty. Especially since we found a power point and recharged our phones. I just about managed to resist taking off my boots and putting on my slippers. We were there for about 2 and a half hours, so left a decent tip and posted a glowing review on Tripadvisor.
The place was busy, all the cafes full and lots of people. Carrying on through the crowds we found a small church in the middle of the main shopping street, with lots of people going in and out, so had a look. All the walls and ceiling were painted with frescoes, so took a few photos.
We stumbled upon the Athens Flea Market, and despite not needing any went in. There were lots of bric-a-brac stalls selling old typewriters, vinyl records and old books etc. There were also several army surplus shops. I asked one guy if he had any camouflage jackets. He said yes, but he couldn't find them. Boom tish.
Pushing through the throngs of people, past full cafes and restaurants, and being clobbered by shopping bags, I wondered how the economy was in such a bad way. Like Spain last year, there were lots of tourists and it was very busy.
We came across Hadrian's Library, but didn't go in. I'd borrowed a book in 132AD and forgot to return it and the fine would be massive.
Having worked up an appetite we stopped at what seemed to be the most popular bakery in Greece, but managed to secure a table. Song had an egg and bacon roll and I had a custard croissant. Gourmet fare indeed.
Suitably stuffed, we got the train back to the airport and the plane to Bucharest. The flight wasn't full so we could stretch out and it only took a couple of hours. Hopped on the bus to the city and asked where the ticket machine was. "The airport" said a girl. By this time we were hurtling down the freeway so hoped there were no ticket inspectors.
Completing our free bus ride, we took the metro to the hotel, got off at the right stop and dragged the cases down some dodgy looking streets.
Tomorrow we're looking around Bucharest and have booked a hotel in a town called Brasov, but not sure if we'll go there because it's a 3 hour train trip.

Impressions of Santorini

I was blown away by Santorini. All I knew of it before we went was that it had some beaches and churches with blue roofs.
The first morning as we walked up the steps to the cliff through the narrow alley lined with tourist and kebab shops I didn't think it was different to other similar places. Then we turned a corner and saw the view of the volcano ahead, the town of Oia on top of the cliffs to the right and islands off in the distance in the early morning light. I don't know if I've seen a better view.
The scenery is magnificent from all over the island, with stunning views out to sea. The people are friendly - the local corner store was left empty but open, the owner was up the road renovating his hotel and popped down to the shop if he saw anyone. In the meantime anyone could have taken what they wanted and walked off. Our host at the hotel was great, giving us a carafe of wine on arrival and dropping us off at the airport at 05:30 in the morning.
Almost all of the buildings on the island were immaculate, clean, and all look freshly painted. Considering that they are mostly white, that's quite an achievement. A lot were being renovated and painted in preparation for the Summer.
We only spent 2 days there but managed to see most of what we wanted, the highlight for me the sunset from Oia.
I think Santorini is one of the best places I've been for natural scenery. If you ever travel to Greece, make sure you take 2 or 3 days to visit Santorini, it's wonderful.
I personally think that we picked the best time to visit - it was busy but not crowded. The buses were full, as was the boat to the volcano and the sunset area, but we could see everything and had no trouble. In peak season it may be a different matter, beaches packed and difficulty booking tours. The weather for us was perfect - we don't like it too hot. Chilly in the morning and evening but t shirt temperature during the day.
We'll probably be coming back, if not to Santorini then one of the other islands.
I had a fantastic time.

Day 9 - Santorini

Woke up around 7, read and generally pottered around a bit until hopping on the 10:15 bus to Kamari, a village on the other side of the island. It only took about 15 minutes, and it was quite a small place but there was a black sand beach there. Weather was fabulous, around 24C, so t shirt again. Sat on the beach for a while and went for a wander, but not a lot to do so got the 11:45 bus back to Fira, where the hotel was. Went to the same place for lunch as where we had dinner, deciding on a light lunch but it seems there is no such thing and I had a chicken souvlaki with chips and pita bread. Song had pork stuffed with ham and cheese with a baked potato. Both servings were large but we managed to finish them. We went back to the hotel to wait for a bus to Akrotiri.
The trip only took about 15 minutes again - the island is quite small. Walked about 800 metres to the Red Beach which was a bit disappointing,  it wasn't a beach and not particularly red. Walked back up again and visited the archeological site. This was fascinating - a settlement had been on the site 5000 years ago, and was rebuilt after a couple of earthquakes and volcanic eruptions.  The last time must have been a bit much because they packed up and went somewhere else.  The site has had a permanent archeological team on site since 1967, and the entire thing is inside a climate controlled building.  They found frescoes preserved by mud slides, and there was even a sewerage system. The ruins that are visible are from 1650-1500BC, the older ones buried underneath as the new settlements were built on top. Really interesting.
Bus back to the hotel, a brief rest then onto another bus to Oia, it was supposed to be the best place on Santorini to watch the sunset.
It seemed like everyone else had the same idea because the bus was packed. The bus trip took us around the back of the island with some amazing views - volcanic rock cliffs on one side, views out to sea on the other.
Oia seemed busier than Fira, the main town. Lots of narrow streets lined with shops. We followed the crowd towards the sun, looking to find a spot to sit and have a drink. Strangely there appeared to be only one restaurant and that was already full. We found a place on a low wall and waited. The view looked right out to sea, the sun slowly setting in front of us. There were hundreds of people lining the walls all with their cameras snapping away.  The view was breathtaking and we got lots of photos. Simply stunning.
As the sun slowly set in the West,  we turned and legged it back to the bus stop - knowing it would be packed on the way back as well. We managed to get a seat, then after 20 minutes were back in the hotel.
Got to be up at 04:00 tomorrow to fly to Athens; the airline changed our tickets and instead of an hour at the airport we now have 10. Not sure what to do, we don't fancy going to any more sights, so may book into a cheap hotel to have a shower and get some sleep. Then on to Bucharest.

Day 8 - Santorini

Woke up at 03:30, stumbled out of bed and a quick shower, walked over the road to the airport and checked in easily. Plane wasn't full but they still managed to seat a woman with a new born baby next to me - but he obviously didn't get the memo because he was asleep till we landed, then let loose.
Got picked up at the airport by the hotel owner which was lucky because we hadn't booked the bus, but a couple of students who were also staying there did.
We were early so the room wasn't ready so we headed out after the owner told us about the sights.
The sun had just come up and it was quite chilly; we walked up some steps through the town until we came to the cliffs. Wow. I know I've said spectacular a lot, but the view was, er, spectacular. Go and look at the photos. Amazing. Since we were up so early we were the only ones there, so could pick the best vantage points. We carried on walking, giving the cameras a good workout, only seeing the occasional person. The houses and buildings all looked newly painted, and there was a lot of construction but it's not intrusive. Out in the bay a cruise ship had arrived, so took photos of that as well.
Walked back to the hotel and the place was coming alive - shops opening and more tourists around. We stopped at a small cafe for breakfast, if you can count toasted ham cheese and tomato sandwiches as breakfast. I also had the worst cup of coffee ever.
Back at the hotel and the owner showed us to the room - a large apartment with a kitchen and separate bedroom. All for 40 Euro a night. And the flight was only 9 Euro (but taxes bumped it up to 54).
Since we were up so early we decided to rest up, but booked a trip to the volcano in the afternoon.
Skipped lunch and headed down the steps to the old port to pick up the boat. The weather was fantastic, warm and sunny, although the wind was cold. I'd put on factor 50 sunscreen and looked like a mime, but it soon disappeared.
I didn't count the steps but there were a lot, I think the correct term is a shit load because there were lots of them and they were covered in donkey crap. You can get a donkey to take you down and up. We opted to walk down but it was pretty hard.
By this time the other tourists were out in force and it was very busy. The boat was one of the non-sinking ones again and set off to the volcano. Song and I stood up the front and shouted "King of the World!". Not really.
The volcano is an island created 400 years ago by an eruption and is still active, although the last occurred in 1950, so hopefully we were safe.
It was very interesting - black volcanic rock, a few craters, and brilliant views back to the main island. The guide said the entire area was once land until a massive eruption 3000 years ago that eradicated the local civilisation. Standing on the island you can look around 360 degrees and see the circular shape of the caldera. There are signs saying not to take any rocks but I took a small one as a souvenir, and hope I didn't anger the fire God. If it erupts again I'll put it back. Back on the boat, some brave people went for a swim to some hot springs but had to cross cold water first. No thanks.
There was no way we were going to go up the steps and the choice was cable car or donkey. I wanted to take the civilised method but Song insisted on a donkey so that was that. The ride was fortunately uneventful and I'd even go so far as to say fun, especially since I wasn't doing the walking. Reached the top and went back to the hotel for a rest, then dinner.
Went to a place recommended by the hotel owner round the corner. I had saganaki to start, Song had Greek salad. I had moussaka for main, Song had stuffed calamari. And a well-earned beer.
The saganaki was good, and a large portion. Song's salad was also good, the veggies very fresh.
Song's stuffed calamari was a whole one stuffed with cheese, and tomato with rice. Mine was a classic moussaka with roasted veggies and was really good. Once again the generous servings put paid to the post dinner ice cream, so I had to forgo it again. I have to say that the food in Greece is better than Istanbul, with more variety and bigger portions. But more expensive.
Done for the day which started at 03:30, we went back to the hotel and collapsed.
Fitbit reckoned I walked 7.92 km today, but I'm having trouble with it, it doesn't like the time zone changes. I think I did a lot more than that, it certainly felt like it.
Taking the bus around the island tomorrow.

Day 7 - Istanbul to Athens

Checked out of the hotel although both Amex cards declined despite calling them before we left to ask they don't block the cards.
Shuttle bus was on time surprisingly and the trip to the airport only took 20 minutes so had breakfast at the airport - very expensive ($5 small coffee) but we had to eat and get rid of our Turkish Lira.
Checked in with plenty of time to spare, plane was small and full but the flight only an hour so no problem.
We are getting the 05:30 flight to Santorini tomorrow which means getting up at 03:30, so we're staying at the Sofitel hotel which is in the airport so we don't have to rush.
Checked in and then out to the Acropolis and the Parthenon. The train ticket was quite pricey for Europe, about $20 each return, and the trip took about 40 minutes. Weather was overcast, chilly and had recently rained, but the sun came out and it was warm enough for a t shirt. Got off the metro and walked round the corner to the museum. This was built in 2010 to house the sculptures and other artifacts from the Acropolis. It was only 5 Euro and was very informative.
Out of the museum and up the hill to the Acropolis. I had last been here in 1972, but didn't remember much about it. The ruins were a lot bigger than I remembered, and were being renovated so there was scaffolding and construction equipment around. It was still very impressive, it's amazing to think they've been there for 2500 years. The views over Athens were magnificent so took loads of photos. Wandered around for about 30 minutes and it looked as if rain was coming so headed back down the hill to get something to eat. We decided to hop on the metro and move away from the tourist area and went one stop. We soon found a place and I ordered a 3 kebab on pita bread with yogurt and tomato sauce, Song ordered pork stuffed with tomatoes and feta cheese. We also ordered pita bread and hummus because we were both very hungry. I also ordered a beer because it is my mission to drink a local beer in every new city - here it was Mythos, in Istanbul it was Efe.
The meals came and they were huge. They were very good and we did the best we could but had to admit defeat. We'd passed an ice cream shop on the way and I was looking forward to getting one but there was no way, I felt like Mr. Creasote (Monty Python, Meaning of Life).
Managed to make it back to the metro and got the train back to the hotel, fell on the bed and tried not to move.
Forgot to take the fitbit but I reckon we walked about 5 or 6 km.
Very early start tomorrow.

Impressions of Istanbul

We leave early for Athens tomorrow, so I thought I'd post my impressions of Istanbul.
Some roads and pavements are in need of repair, but the place is very clean, which I didn't expect with all the tourists. April is the time of the Tulip festival and they plant 15 million, they are everywhere and I think Song has a photo of nearly all of them. Apparently tulips originated in Turkey and not Holland. I didn't know that.
The city is densely packed, over 2000 people per square km, and the traffic isn't too bad but the driving is - cars double parked and no lane discipline. Mind you, the pedestrians are just as bad, crossing against the lights, jaywalking everywhere and looking at their phones.
There are street vendors everywhere selling water, guide books, tours, baked goods, tissues, (fake) perfume and sunglasses etc.   Song remarked that there don't seem to be many homeless or beggars, which you'd expect in a touristy city. We've only seen two in 5 days. The people are friendly and helpful, the restaurant staff seem genuine and you don't get the impression that they are just trying to sell you things. They smoke a lot here, probably second only to Croatia. They also drink a lot of tea, groups of men sit and drink and chat.
The people seem relaxed and happy, but they are prepared to stand up for their country - with recent riots and demonstrations against corruption and internet censorship.
There are stray cats and dogs everywhere, although a lot of the dogs have registration tags in their ears (ouch) so the custom here must be to let them roam the streets. Song wanted to pet some of them but I don't think it's a good idea, I'm quite fond of my fingers.
A lot of the buildings are old looking but there is a fair bit of renovation going on and the economy doesn't seem depressed. Most of the cars are decent and European, lots of Renaults, Citroens, Fiats and VWs. The city is spread across the rivers and is spectacular. Since we were based in the old city near the Blue Mosque, we walked past it several times, and every time I stopped to look at it - it's amazing. We both like the place and may come back and travel to other parts of Turkey in the future.

Day 6 - Istanbul

Woke up at 7, back up the steps to breakfast. Decided to make base camp on level 5 then carried on up to the top when rested.
Back down, then to the cafe for a latte. Weather sunny but still cold so jumper and jacket again.
On a side note, the pizza place we ate at yesterday is the 9th most popular restaurant on Tripadvisor - out of over 10000 in Istanbul.
Walked around to the Basilica Cistern, no queue to get in for a change. It was an underground reservoir fed from a forest 19 km from the city. It was abandoned for centuries then renovated in the 80s and opened as a tourist attraction. It is cool, dark and has around 200 columns, including a few with carvings and one with an upside down face of Medusa for some reason. Left that and walked to the Spice Bazaar we visited as part of the tour yesterday. On the way we witnessed the shoe shine scam. There are loads of blokes carrying shoe shine boxes offering to clean your shoes (obviously), but the scam is that as they walk past you they drop a brush. You stop to pick it up and he's so grateful he offers to clean your shoes, making it seem as if it is free. Of course it isn't. So one of these guys was coming towards us, and a brush hit the ground. Luckily I'd only read about it yesterday so we kept walking - funnily enough he realised he'd dropped it and picked it up himself.
At the Spice Bazaar, accosted by every vendor, but resisted and looked at lots of shops and bought some tea. The prices ranged from 250 Turkish Lira to 25 for a kilo of the same rosehip tea, so it's best to shop around. Walked back to the hotel carrying our purchases (even more Turkish Delight. Song keeps telling me to stop eating it but then buys 4 kilos of the stuff).
Lunchtime. Walked back to the place near the Grand Bazaar where we are the other day - a kebab again, but these were good and cheap. Wandered around a bit more, stopping to stare at the Mosques again, then decided to head back to the hotel again. Walked 10.97 km today.
Were all set to go out again for dinner but neither of us were hungry so stayed in and watched downloads.
Tomorrow is Athens for half a day, then onto Santorini.
Last year I was able to show a map on the web page that showed my location in real time whenever I was connected to the internet. It used Google Locate but they've discontinued it so I can't do it this year. Google have also changed the way I was able to link to gps tracks that I'm recording so they aren't up, but I hope to have those available at some stage, I'm working on it.

Day 5 - Istanbul

Up at 06:30 for an early breakfast then onto a coach for our day trip on the river - part coach trip and part boat trip.
Bus picked us up a bit late, drove around the old city walls and the guide pointed out various old buildings that I can't remember the names of. Visited the spice market and bought some more Turkish Delight and some Pomegranate tea.  Then got on the boat and off we went along the river. Spent about an hour and a half, went up one side and down the other, saw some impressive buildings and generally had a relaxing time - better than walking. The sun was out and a there was a light breeze which was a bit chilly so we had the coats on. The boat was nice, clean and looked unlikely to sink, which is the main thing I look for in a boat.
Next stop was lunch which was included and we found ourselves back by the Hagia Sophia, not far from the hotel. The restaurant was rubbish and obviously provides cheap meals to the tour operator. Kebabs again. After lunch the bus took a detour that wasn't on the itinerary to a "fashion show" where several young people walked up and down a catwalk to loud music and flashing lights wearing leather jackets. Afterwards they invited everyone upstairs where there was "an opportunity to buy". I wouldn't buy them even if they were the best jackets in the world and came with a free puppy, on principle. So we snuck out to avoid a hard sell. A few others did the same thing and weren't happy about the diversion. This calls for another bad review on Tripadvisor.
Next was a trip over the Bosphorus Bridge, travelling from Europe to Asia. We visited the Beylerbeyi Palace, the Sultan's Summer Palace. It was very impressive - the whole interior was painted in a variety of colours and was very ostentatious. Bright reds, blues and green. Chandeliers with Baccarat and Murano glass. The main room with the (empty) pond and fountain that was used for cooling was particularly impressive, as was the Blue Room on the first floor. We weren't allowed to take photos so go and ask Google. Well worth the visit. Back on the bus and up one of the seven hills of Istanbul for a spectacular view over the city, and a 30 minute stop at a cafe where a latte was $5.50 - the owner probably gives a kickback to the tour operator.
Hotel bound, we were dropped off at the Hippodrome and decided to get something to eat. We found a place off a side street that served the traditional Turkish food known as Pizza. We were a bit fed up with kebabs so fancied a change. I think it's hard to stuff up pizza, and this one was ok. Walked back past the Blue Mosque again and took more pictures because the sun was out, then back to the hotel.
Didn't walk as much today because of the boat and bus - 6.97 km.
More sightseeing tomorrow.
I just noticed that the links were broken, they are fixed now.

Day 4 - Istanbul

Up the steps again for breakfast - 67,I counted them - then out to the Grand Bazaar. It was a lot colder today, around 8c so jumper and jacket. The Bazaar was open today, and we got there early so there weren't too many people. The first bunch of shops were selling jewellery, gold and silver, so Song was happy. The Bazaar is divided up into sections - jewellery, leather, antiques, clothing etc. We wandered around for a couple of hours, getting hassled by the vendors - "You want handbag / carpet / tea / watch?" "Where you from? " etc. We didn't buy anything, I think it's a bit of a tourist trap and it's difficult to know what to pay. The price comes down as you show less and less interest in the thing.
Back out again and lunchtime - decided to go for a traditional kebab (or kebap here). Song had a plate of 8 falafel, a plate of hummus and a coke all for about $7.50. I had a kebap (or kebab elsewhere) but can't remember what it cost.
Looked in the book and decided to go to the Topkapi Palace - I'd mentioned it a few times but Song wasn't too keen, but I said it was one of the top things to see here. It was only later that she said she thought I kept saying "Top carpet" and didn't see the big deal with a carpet museum.
Had to queue for a ticket, but only about 15 minutes, then went inside and walked through some gardens to find another longer queue for the palace itself. No option but to join it. After about 20 minutes of shuffling we entered a small room that was the treasury - to be honest I expected more. Anyway, there were several artifacts covered in huge emeralds, countless rubies and diamonds, a few thrones and the sword of Suleman the Great, so it was worth the wait.
There were three or four other rooms with various jewelled items including the Topkapi Dagger and an 86 carat diamond from the 14th century that was said to have been found on a rubbish tip and the finder sold it for three spoons. I would have given him four and thrown in a fork.
I peeled Song off the glass and we continued around the palace. It was pretty big and had amazing views over the Bosphorus. The rest of the palace was comprised of lots of ornate and colourfully painted rooms, including one that was used to store the royal turbans.
There was a series of rooms that held various religious artifacts - the sword of the prophet David from 10 BC, bits of the kaaba, and what was claimed to be the staff of the prophet Moses. Er, ok, sure, but I hope they got a receipt for that one because I'm not convinced. Next was a visit to the harem, which was more elaborate than the actual palace - lots of rooms and all beautifully decorated. We spent about 4 hours in the palace and the feet were beginning to protest so headed back to the hotel. Rested up for a couple of hours then went to have dinner at the restaurant we'd passed yesterday which had the whirling dervish. Didn't order much, just a yogurt dip to start and shared a plate of mixed kebabs. The food was nice, but the service rubbish and they tried to overcharge us, so didn't leave a tip and will write a bad review on Tripadvisor - ha, that'll show them.
Bought some Turkish Delight on the way back, watched some Tv and then sleep. We've booked a day trip on the Bosphorus tomorrow.
Walked 10.95 km today.