Thursday, April 11, 2013

Day 14 - Lisbon

Hotel breakfast again, then trying to decide where to go. Feeling a bit over the historical stuff so picked the aquarium. Personally I think if you've seen one aquarium you've seen them all, but Song said she hadn't been to one since 2005. I doubt fish have evolved much since then, but it was a change from old buildings so off we went.

Took the metro and a short walk to the aquarium. The weather was gloomy again, about 16C and overcast. The aquarium was quite good - on 2 levels with a large central tank filled with all kinds of fishy things. Sharks, rays etc. I found Nemo, then after about 2.5 hours we'd seen enough so got back on the metro and went to the town centre for lunch - seafood naturally. Went to one we'd seen the day before but it was way down the Tripadvisor list, so walked to one that was no. 7. Song had a crab and some shellfish that looked as if they were from a sci fi film, and I had a giant tiger prawn. The food was very good, and the place was very busy.

Wandered around a bit more then walked back to the hotel. Once again there were old, boarded up buildings, litter everywhere and graffiti.

Breakfast then onto Porto tomorrow.

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

Day 13 - Lisbon

Breakfast at the hotel, then out and about. Temperature about 15C, cloudy and overcast. Walked 2km to visit the Gulbenkian Museum. Walking around revealed Lisbon to be grotty - rubbish in the streets, lots of abandoned buildings and ugly graffiti everywhere. Not what I expected and a bit disappointing.

The museum was very good. Artifacts from Egypt, China, Japan; Islamic items,furniture and paintings from Manet, Rodin, Turner, Gainsborough, Rembrandt, Reubens and others. There were 400 year old carpets and rugs that were in amazing condition. Also some tiles that were the same age but looked as if they were made yesterday. Just read about the guy, he made his money from oil.

Hopped on the metro and went to the main area of Lisbon, then got on a bus to the Castle. Started to rain, the first rain we've had, but only drizzle. Got some good photos from the top of the castle. Since it wasn't too far we walked back down to the main part and looked for something to eat.

Found a place, pretty ordinary. Song had grilled squid with potatoes and salad, I had mixed grill with chips.

Walked around bit, looking for the 6th best place to eat in Lisbon according to Tripadvisor, found it and sat down to eat - ice cream. I don't know what it says about place where one of the best places to eat is an ice-cream joint. It was good, but nothing to rave about. This was about the 4th ice cream I've had. Song says she doesn't want any and then proceeds to eat half of mine.

Been on the go for 7 hours, so got the metro back to the hotel where we stayed in. Another day in Lisbon tomorrow.

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Day 12 - Lagos to Lisbon

Filled up with breakfast, left the bags at the hotel and got on a local bus. Didn't know exactly where it was going but the town wasn't very big so it couldn't go far. Ended up at the main bus station and booked our tickets to Lisbon, then went wandering. Visited the old slave market, a bit boring, just a small room.

I sat and had a coffee while Song looked around the shops and came back with 3 handbags. I think she now has the world's largest collection.

T Shirt weather again, very pleasant. Just walked about until time for the coach, it was nice to not have to visit things. We've got plenty of that coming up.

Coach was very comfortable, not many people on it so could spread out. Watched some tv downloads and the 4 hour trip went quickly. Hopped on the metro and got to the hotel with only 1 wrong turn.

Walked to a restaurant which was number 106 out of over 1300 in Tripadvisor and it was ok, nothing special. We both had spinach soup to start, then Song had a Portugese sausage with potatoes, rice and dry salad. I had a steak with potatoes and cabbage. Song's sausage was very salty, my steak wasn't bad but nothing to write home about even though that's what I'm doing. Couldn't complain about the price though, it was about $30 and that included a large glass of wine and a pot of tea.

Exploring Lisbon tomorrow.

Monday, April 8, 2013

Day 11 - Lagos

Got the coach from Seville to Lagos, left at 07:30 and arrived around 13:00 but slept and watched some stuff and it went quickly.

Took a taxi to the hotel, the room was very nice. Walked into the town and stopped at a restaurant in the main street for a Peri Peri chicken (think Nandos). Song had some tapas. Meal was OK, not spectacular. The weather was changable - when the sun was out it was too hot to wear a coat, then when it went in it was too cold without it. Mostly the sun was out and it was quite pleasant.

Walked around the town, it's quite small and most of it is contained inside the old city walls. Quite a few people about, heard English, French and German. I think the town is a popular English tourist destination because all the signs are in English. Although it made it easy for us it was a bit disappointing because it made the town seem less exotic.

Walked to the slave market but it was closed, so went to the old fort and pottered about there. Took some photos, then walked back to the hotel. Only then realised the time zone was different to Spain and we'd gained an hour, throwing out our body clocks again.

This walking around stuff certainly tires you out; we decided to stay in the hotel again.

Back on the road tomorrow, will spend the morning in Lagos then take another bus to Lisbon. We're in Lisbon for 3 nights so not so much travelling for the next few days, but probably more walking.

Sunday, April 7, 2013

Day 10 - Seville

Had a bit of a lie in and headed out around 10:30. Glorious day, sun shining but a bit cold.

Walked along the river and through some gardens and arrived at Plaza De Espana (the Spanish Square in case you don't speak Spanish).

Another very impressive site. A large area with a fountain, a huge semi circular building, very colourful tiles everywhere and a small river running around it with tiled bridges. I thought it was very old but it was actually built in 1929 for an exposition. I didn't expect the Spanish Exposition.

Walked a bit more, temperature was around 22C, and decided to visit the Cathedral, queued for about 15 minutes. We've seen a lot of cathedrals in our European travels so were in two minds, but the tomb of Christopher Columbus is there so that made it worth it. The cathedral was built around a mosque, but there's not a lot of that left. We climbed up the tower, 34 flights, but it was ramps rather than stairs so it wasn't too hard. Great views from the top so took loads of photos.

Came out of the cathedral and over the square to the Real Alcazar. This was billed as an Islamic palace, and we thought we might be all Islamic Palaced out after visiting one in Marrakech and Alhambra in Granada, but we thought we may as well since we were here. Good call, because it was massive, and the best we'd seen. Lots of courtyards, fountains, gardens, huge decorated rooms etc. Well worth it.

Decided to go back to the hotel, dump the backpack and go to dinner at the number 2 spot as voted by Tripadvisor. We walked back along the river and there were hundreds of people milling around, sunbathing, drinking and generally having a good time. It was really a good vibe.

I was a bit worried that we wouldn't be able to get into the restaurant because it was Saturday night, but thought it worth a shot and it was reasonably close to the hotel. Despite all the walking we'd done we headed out and after about 30 minutes arrived at the place at 19:15. It was closed.

We decided to just find any place so started walking, but there was nothing open. There were tons of people about, all the clothes shops were open, apparently the economy here is in the toilet but you wouldn't know it.

There were tons of bars open so we think the Spanish drink and chat for a while then eat later. We eventually found a place that looked decent. Looks can be deceptive. I had fish (cod) Santa Maria and Song had calamari. I didn't know what Santa Maria meant but thought I'd give it a go. Apparently it means "undercooked and cold, served in a sauce out of the bottle". Song liked her calamari. We also decided to have a glass of Sangria each, which was pretty potent and we were both a bit drunk so the evening wasn't completely wasted.

Stopped off at a supermarket on the way back, and it was packed - this was at 22:00 - with people doing what looked like their weekly shopping. Staggered back to the hotel, wrote this and went to bed. Up at 06:00 tomorrow to get the bus to Lagos, Portugal (hopefully)

Saturday, April 6, 2013

Day 9 - Seville

Had breakfast at the hotel, then took a taxi to the bus station, boarded the bus to Seville. Booked the tickets the day before and that was an adventure - the online form didn't work with the tablet so I had to use the hotel desktop, then for some reason it wouldn't accept any of the credit cards. Luckily I have a PayPal account and it took that.

Trip took about 3 hours, dozed a bit and watched some tv shows I'd downloaded. The scenery was mostly olive trees.

Got to Seville where it was raining, which was surprising because I thought the rain in Spain fell mainly in the plain. Temperature about 15C.

Checked in then went out for a walk. The sun came out and it warmed up, we had to take our coats off and just had t shirts. Went to the bus station and got our tickets to Lagos for Sunday. Then headed off to the town centre. Very pretty streets and buildings, there is a very noticable Arabic influence. A lot of the buildings are coloured - yellow, red, orange, and have decorative features. We went to most of the attractions just by wandering around - the cathedral (Christopher Columbus is buried there), gardens, university, several churches. There are lots of narrow streets but unlike Marrakech they are clean and easy to navigate. There were lots of people around, both tourists and locals. Quite a few English, American and French, haven't seen or heard any Aussies.

Stopped at a restaurant for tapas but was disappointed in the quality; we had a shrimp frittata, lamb stuffed with spinach and mushrooms, croquettes, pork and bull tail. The bull tail was surprisingly tasty.

While waiting for the food to arrive I checked Google maps and discovered the bus tickets I'd bought were to the wrong Lagos. I'd bought tickets to the Lagos in Malaga which was the opposite direction we wanted to go. Popped back to the bus station and managed to change it. Disaster averted; if I hadn't checked we might not have realised until we arrived at the wrong place.

Feet aching, went back to the hotel and relaxed. Another day here tomorrow, will visit a couple of the attractions we missed.

Friday, April 5, 2013

Day 8 - Granada

Took a taxi to Alhambra Palace, the main attraction in Granada. Built during the Arab occupation of this area of Spain in the 13th century, and took over 100 years to build. It was where the king of the area lived.

We'd booked a walking tour before we left, it's essential because they limit the number of people allowed in at one time, plus it avoids the queues. The weather was chilly and overcast but at least it wasn't raining.

The tour took about 2 hours and the palace was very impressive. Lots of ornate carvings and mouldings, fountains and gardens. The Alhambra is basically a city within a city - where the royal family, the harem and the staff lived, about 2000 people.

The palace was handed over to the Spanish in 1492 when the Sultan surrended.

After the tour we walked into the town which took about 10 minutes and had some lunch. We shared a plate of Jamon, which is the finely cut and cured ham, plus a seafood paella (basically risotto). It was good, but a little salty. Cost about $70 which was probably a bit steep for what we got, but the restaurant did look a bit posh.

Walked for about an hour around the town, lots of old buildings. We tried to go to the Cathedral but it didn't open for a while so went to a supermarket - we really go mad when we're on holiday. It started to rain heavily so we decided to skip the cathedral and went back to the hotel. Decided not to go out again, the walking had taken it's toll.

We're getting the bus to Seville tomorrow.

Thursday, April 4, 2013

Day 7 - on the road

Not doing anything today, just breakfast and the Airport.

Well, Morocco is probably top of our list of places never to visit again. Disappointed that it is very disorganised, noisy, dirty and hard to find the sights. I've travelled in the Middle East a lot, but every where else I've been was different - cleaner and not full of people trying to rip you off.

The things we did see were impressive and worth the effort, but I just felt that generally navigation was too hard. The place is made up of narrow winding streets that have mopeds, cycles and donkeys everywhere, there are no signs, and the map we were given wasn't detailed enough. Maybe a tour guide is a necessity, but we tend to like to be a bit independent.

Onto Spain.

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Day 6 - Marrakech

Woken again by the muezzin, but managed to go back to sleep and had breakfast again on the roof of the hotel. Always a bit chilly in the morning.

Decided to visit the Jardin Majorelle, so looked it up in google maps, requested directions and headed out. Didn't need a data connection for the gps because the map had already loaded, so managed to follow the route with relative ease. Why didn't I think of that yesterday?

I'll tell you why not - google was wrong. We arrived at the supposed destination but it wasn't anywhere near where we were supposed to be. Only when I expanded the map could I see the place was about a km away.

Luckily the gps was working so we managed to get there eventually. It was worth it, the gardens were excellent. Once owned by a painter called Jacques Majorelle, it was later bought by Yves St. Laurent and opened to the public. Mostly cactii, but very colourful and very interesting.

Spent about an hour and a half there, then decided we'd rely on local knowledge and took a taxi to an old school - Ben Youssef Madrasa. The taxi couldn't get close so we ended up walking again. It's virtually impossible to find anything in Marrakech, there are no signs and it's hundreds of alleyways. I managed to use the gps and practically stumbled upon the entrance which is just a non-descript doorway. Considering it's one of the major attractions here it's amazing it's so hard to find. Maybe they want you to hire guides. It doesn't help that whenever you get out the map the locals ask you where you are going and offer to help - only for money, as we found out yesterday. We were also convinced they just point you in any direction. One kid said the main square was along one alley, we'd only gone 20m when another kid said it was the way we just came.

The Madrassa was very impressive - amazing carvings and decorations all over the walls, in both wood and stone. We spent around 45 minutes there and decided to get some lunch, went around the corner and saw the Maison de Photographie. This is the no. 1 attraction in Marrakech according to Trip Advisor, but we would have missed it completely if we hadn't walked past it.

Some excellent photos of Morocco from as early as 1870, and from the 1920s an 1940s. Scenes of the souks, and portraits.

Headed back towards where the first taxi dropped us, and after a few wrong turns and lots of offers of "help" found our way back. Took a taxi back to our hotel area for lunch. Found a cafe that looked OK. We shared a salad nicoise, I had beef skewers and Song had lamb skewers. Good sized portions, very tasty with lots of spices, and we went back to the hotel, not needing dinner.

Although early, we decided not to go out again, we were both a bit fed up with the noise and the hassle from the locals. I'm sure many are genuine and don't mind helping, but we were conned twice yesterday and so don't trust them.

Off to Spain tomorrow.

Tuesday, April 2, 2013

Day 5 - Marrakech

I discovered that there was no need for an alarm clock when, at 04:45, the Muezzin in the local mosque started the call to prayer. The local mosque being about 100 metres away, and with the aid of a PA system that really wasn't necessary, woke up everyone in the neighbourhood. It finally stopped after about 10 minutes, but someone must have hit the snooze button, because he started again 5 minutes later.

Couldn't get back to sleep so read until time for breakfast.

Temperature was about 14C in the morning, expected to get to about 24C.

Got a map from the hotel and the guy pointed out the places of interest, but we discovered later that the map was next to useless.

Headed off to the main square (Jemaa el Fna), then wandered into the souk (basically the market). Learnt very quickly that to stop and look at anything was an invitation for the shop owner to follow us around for the next hour offering ever decreasing prices for the item we showed a passing interest in.

Song bought a camel. Not a real one thankfully.

The place is very dirty and smelly, and mopeds are everywhere - the streets are very narrow and packed with pedestrians but this doesn't stop them from speeding past.

Found our way to Bahia Palace, and it was at this stage that we realised that the map didn't have enough detail to be of much use, coupled with the fact that very few of the streets have signs. The palace was quite impressive; not furnished, but mainly a showcase for the intricate carvings and other details. It was very busy, lots of tour groups milling around and impossible to get any photos without any one in.

We left this palace and headed off to find El Badi Palace. We found ourselves trailing behind a tour group, and I suggested we just follow them around. My cunning plan was foiled when they immediately got on a bus.

Started to warm up, around 25C.

Whilst studying a map to try and find where the palace was, a young guy asked us what we were looking for. He immediately said he didn't want any money, he wanted to practice his English.

He showed us around for a while, took us into the Jewish area and told us about the history. He introduced us to a shopkeeper who was selling spices and then left. We bought some mint tea and went to get some lunch.

Found a place and I had a Tangine of chicken and olives which I expected to be a symphony of Moroccon spices but just tasted like chicken with olives. Song had cous cous with 7 vegetables. I didn't know there were 7 vegetables.

Went to the El Badi Palace which was a bit disappointing - mostly a ruin.

Went looking for some gardens, and a young bloke asked us what we were looking for, then insisted on showing us the way. After winding around several alleyways he stopped and pointed down the road and held out his hand. We gave him a few coins and he protested it wasn't enough so we gave him about $5 but he still wasn't happy. We walked off.

5 minutes later we were still lost and bumped into the guy who sold us the tea. He dragged us around for a few minutes, then did the same trick of pointing down the road and asking for money. Gave him $5 and he wasn't happy either.

Hopefully we've learnt our lesson.

Found our way back to the hotel, had a rest and looked for somewhere to go for dinner.

Found a place from trip advisor that was close to the hotel and once again couldn't find it. Either the maps are useless or the places are in a different dimension because no matter how many times we backtracked we couldn't find it.

Ended up going to another place from trip advisor. I had a Moroccon salad followed by a Tangine with lamb. Song had a vegetarian tagine.

The food was very good - my salad was a mix of 4; spicy capsicum, eggplant, shredded carrot and something like squash. The tagine had lamb, walnut and dried fruit. A lot better than the one I had for lunch.
Song was very happy with her vegetarian tagine.

Wandered back to the hotel, went to bed and waited to be woken up at the crack of dawn again.

Monday, April 1, 2013

Day 4 - Paris and Marrakech

Temperature was -2, not nice, hands and face felt he cold.

Didn't have anything planned, the flight to Morocco was at 14:55. Popped into a cafe and had a coffee and danishes, then went to the Champs Elysees again because Song wanted to buy some more clothes.

Took the train to the airport and had the longest queue for security I've ever seen. It took an hour to get through. Song and I had to split up because I have a European passport, and we finally met up just before 14:55 only to see that the flight was delayed until 16:30. Did a bit of shopping, got to the gate at 16:00 only to find it was now delayed until 17:15. That was around the time we were supposed to be in Marrakesh so a bit annoyed.

Flight was good, only 3 hours and we had an empty seat between us so a bit of room for a change. Landed to a temperature of 22C - big difference to the -2C we left behind in Paris. Took a taxi to the hotel and it was probably the most frightening 15 minutes of my life. They have traffic lights but they seem to be advisory since most cars, bikes, mopeds, buses and trucks decided when they would stop or go and if it coincided with the correct colour then it was a stroke of luck.

I don't know how big Marrakech is, but I'm guessing it's not too huge, so the taxi driver didn't inspire confidence when he had to stop and ask the way to the hotel from a 10 year old kid. Luckily it was just down the road. When he stopped another couple of kids tried to help us with our bags and insisted on showing us to our hotel down a small dark alley. Fortunately there were a couple of police standing by so I made a point of asking them and making sure they saw the kids so could find them again in case we went missing.

Actually without the kids we wouldn't have found the place and actually felt a bit guilty when they held out their hands and we didn't have any small change. I don't think they had credit card facilities.

Th hotel is quite boutique, only has 5 rooms, and ours is a bit small. Neither of us was hungry so just stayed in the room and did this.