Slept well in our suite.
Checked out as late as we could because the
flight wasn't until 01:35, then walked around the corner to a shopping
mall. Walked out of the hotel into a sauna, a big difference from
yesterday. We'd stayed at the same hotel in 2014 and walked past a
building that still wasn't finished from last time.
The shopping
mall had a bakery called Paul's, a French chain we like so headed there
and had brunch. I had a camembert sandwich, Song had a tuna roll. With a
coffee and bottle of water came to $49 - a bit pricey really.
Wandered
around a bit more, thought to see a movie but there was nothing we
fancied. The shopping mall just wasn't big enough so got the metro to
the Dubai Mall, THE LARGEST SHOPPING MALL IN THE WORLD!
We went
there last time - it has a dinosaur fossil, an ice skating rink, a
waterfall, aquarium and watches that cost the same as a house - not just
any house, but a house in Melbourne.
Had a wander and a sit down,
just chilled out watching all the people. I have to say, most of the
shops seemed to be empty of customers but full of staff. Song bought
some shoes in a small shop that had 6 assistants.
Found another Paul's and had afternoon tea - a selection of canapes and small rolls and desserts.
Carried
on marvelling at the extent of the place, then hopped back onto the
metro to go back to the hotel to pick up the bags. We'd discovered that
the metro went to the airport and was a lot cheaper than a cab so just
did that. Had plenty of time, breezed through passport control and
security and found another Paul's in the airport. Song had a salmon roll
but I was a bit over their stuff and wasn't hungry so didn't bother.
Flight went surprisingly quickly considering it was 13 hours - I didn't sleep much but watched TV.
Got
to Melbourne airport, and my passport couldn't be read by the machine. I
tried it three times, then the woman who was there to help tried it
three times but was then stumped and didn't know what to do so told me
to join another queue, which took 20 minutes, which meant by the time I
got through everyone had collected their bags and there was another 20
minute queue to get through customs, and another queue to get on the
skybus and there weren't enough seats so I had to sit in the luggage
area which was a bit undignified. On top of this the driver said there
were delays and the trip would be a bit longer. Welcome home.
So
that was it for our 2017 Balkans extravaganza. It went a lot more
smoothly than I expected, especially the travel in Albania, Kosovo and
Macedonia, all due to Song's research and planning.
The overall
impression for me is that the Balkan landscape is stunning, views to
rival Canada. But a lot of the places are poor and underdeveloped and in
need of basic amenities. Most of the public toilets are the 'squat and
drop' design and BYO toilet paper, and smoking in restaurants and cafes
is still allowed.
I can't see us going back. The highlights for me I
think were the drive from Dubrovnik to Kotor, Lake Koman and Lake Como,
and I did like Ljubljana.
Next year we're thinking of a cruise around South East Asia or South America, or a foodie trip around Western France and Spain.
We think this was our last trip where we visit so many countries and hop on and off buses, and our last month-long trip, it's a bit exhausting. We stayed at 17 hotels over about 25 days.
Saturday, April 29, 2017
Thursday, April 27, 2017
Day 25 - Milan to Dubai
Woke up at 06:00, out at 06:55, too early for breakfast so walked to the
train station in the pouring rain. Picked up a roll at the station then
the fast train to the airport.
We had a 6 hour flight, then 1 hour at Doha, then a 1 hour flight to Dubai.
Flight from Doha to Dubai was delayed, they changed the plane which meant all the seat allocations were wrong so they had to tear up the boarding passes and issue new ones.
Flight was about 6 hours and uneventful, and I had the worst meal on a plane I can remember - very chewy beef that was luke warm in a terrible sauce with cold vegetables.
I'd tried to book the shuttle bus from the airport to the hotel but they didn't confirm, so weren't waiting. We got a taxi, a nice Lexus driven by a grumpy woman when we told her the name of the hotel because it wasn't far from the airport. It was just as well the bus wasn't there, it cost 3 times as much as the taxi.
When we got to the hotel I mentioned that we were expecting a pick up at the hotel and the guy was apologetic but said we didn't confirm. I nearly said that it was a bit hard to do at 30000 feet but didn't.
He said the only non smoking room had 2 single beds that he could push together. Not happy. We'd booked the room in February, and I asked what was the point of us booking specifically for a king size bed and non smoking room months in advance if, when we arrived, it wasn't available?
My mild annoyance worked and he upgraded us to a suite. So we had 2 toilets, a lounge with a tv, King size bed, another Tv in the bedroom, a kitchen and a huge bathroom. I should have complained at some of the other places.
Tomorrow is a wander around the Dubai shopping malls - just a day of relaxation before the flight home which leaves at 01:35.
We had a 6 hour flight, then 1 hour at Doha, then a 1 hour flight to Dubai.
Flight from Doha to Dubai was delayed, they changed the plane which meant all the seat allocations were wrong so they had to tear up the boarding passes and issue new ones.
Flight was about 6 hours and uneventful, and I had the worst meal on a plane I can remember - very chewy beef that was luke warm in a terrible sauce with cold vegetables.
I'd tried to book the shuttle bus from the airport to the hotel but they didn't confirm, so weren't waiting. We got a taxi, a nice Lexus driven by a grumpy woman when we told her the name of the hotel because it wasn't far from the airport. It was just as well the bus wasn't there, it cost 3 times as much as the taxi.
When we got to the hotel I mentioned that we were expecting a pick up at the hotel and the guy was apologetic but said we didn't confirm. I nearly said that it was a bit hard to do at 30000 feet but didn't.
He said the only non smoking room had 2 single beds that he could push together. Not happy. We'd booked the room in February, and I asked what was the point of us booking specifically for a king size bed and non smoking room months in advance if, when we arrived, it wasn't available?
My mild annoyance worked and he upgraded us to a suite. So we had 2 toilets, a lounge with a tv, King size bed, another Tv in the bedroom, a kitchen and a huge bathroom. I should have complained at some of the other places.
Tomorrow is a wander around the Dubai shopping malls - just a day of relaxation before the flight home which leaves at 01:35.
Day 24 - Bellagio to Milan
Woke up at 07:00, miserable day again, cold and cloudy. Took one last
look at the view over the lake, ferries criss-crossing the still water.
Quick breakfast then shuttle bus to the ferry, bought the ticket to Varenna. Got on the boat, showed the ticket and said 'Varenna?' and the guy clipped the ticket and the boat went to Cadenabbia. Had to go back to Bellagio and wait for the next ferry to Varenna. Very pissed off, I'd shown the ticket, asked to make sure, and the guy either didn't care or was an idiot.
Ran round to the other jetty and just managed to get the right boat this time.
Quick jog up to the train station and met all the people who got on the correct boat. Ticket office was shut because of a public holiday, so hoped to get on the right train and bought the ticket on board, had to wait 30 minutes though.
The train was packed, couldn't sit together so I had to sit near 3 noisy kids playing games on their phones with the sound up and constantly moving seats. Luckily the journey was only an hour.
Went down to the metro and took the train to the hotel.
Hotel was nice, dropped the bags and went around the corner to the painting of The Last Supper. Sold out. It was a public holiday so we probably picked the worst day to come.
Walked into the main bit, stopped off at a cafe for a light lunch of a slice of pizza for Song and a ham and cheese roll for me, plus a pastry each.
Carried on and entered the Castillo - a huge building with tall walls. As we left we were hassled by guys trying to "give" us string bracelets - it's a con that is also prevalent in Paris and Rome. They say it's free and tie it onto your wrist and then tell you to pay them some money. Despite telling them no they persist and follow you around. There are also guys selling selfie sticks and phone chargers - to me that's fair enough, they are selling something and making a profit, fair go. The other guys are a waste of space.
Walked a bit more and found the Duomo - the main cathedral of Milan. Made of marble, with ornate carvings everywhere, it was very impressive. We decided not to go in because we've seen plenty of churches and the queue was huge. There were a lot of police around, some with riot gear and some soldiers with guns. Behind the cathedral was the biggest sweet shop I've ever seen - three floors of sweets and chocolate. Bought some nibbles and came out to a demonstration - obviously what the police were there for. It was peaceful and we walked around it, then got the metro back to the hotel. The restaurants didn't open for a couple of hours so we watched TV.
Walked around the corner to a restaurant from Tripadvisor but it was a different one - an organic pizza joint. Decided that wasn't for us so walked a bit more and found one by chance. I had spaghetti with yellow tomatoes and cheese to start, Song had seafood pasta. I also had a glass of wine instead of a beer.
For main Song had swordfish, I had beef.
The starter was good but the main was bland - sliced beef with rocket and sweet potato crisps, no dressing or sauce. Cost about $100 and wasn't worth it.
Walked back to the hotel, fly out to Dubai tomorrow.
Quick breakfast then shuttle bus to the ferry, bought the ticket to Varenna. Got on the boat, showed the ticket and said 'Varenna?' and the guy clipped the ticket and the boat went to Cadenabbia. Had to go back to Bellagio and wait for the next ferry to Varenna. Very pissed off, I'd shown the ticket, asked to make sure, and the guy either didn't care or was an idiot.
Ran round to the other jetty and just managed to get the right boat this time.
Quick jog up to the train station and met all the people who got on the correct boat. Ticket office was shut because of a public holiday, so hoped to get on the right train and bought the ticket on board, had to wait 30 minutes though.
The train was packed, couldn't sit together so I had to sit near 3 noisy kids playing games on their phones with the sound up and constantly moving seats. Luckily the journey was only an hour.
Went down to the metro and took the train to the hotel.
Hotel was nice, dropped the bags and went around the corner to the painting of The Last Supper. Sold out. It was a public holiday so we probably picked the worst day to come.
Walked into the main bit, stopped off at a cafe for a light lunch of a slice of pizza for Song and a ham and cheese roll for me, plus a pastry each.
Carried on and entered the Castillo - a huge building with tall walls. As we left we were hassled by guys trying to "give" us string bracelets - it's a con that is also prevalent in Paris and Rome. They say it's free and tie it onto your wrist and then tell you to pay them some money. Despite telling them no they persist and follow you around. There are also guys selling selfie sticks and phone chargers - to me that's fair enough, they are selling something and making a profit, fair go. The other guys are a waste of space.
Walked a bit more and found the Duomo - the main cathedral of Milan. Made of marble, with ornate carvings everywhere, it was very impressive. We decided not to go in because we've seen plenty of churches and the queue was huge. There were a lot of police around, some with riot gear and some soldiers with guns. Behind the cathedral was the biggest sweet shop I've ever seen - three floors of sweets and chocolate. Bought some nibbles and came out to a demonstration - obviously what the police were there for. It was peaceful and we walked around it, then got the metro back to the hotel. The restaurants didn't open for a couple of hours so we watched TV.
Walked around the corner to a restaurant from Tripadvisor but it was a different one - an organic pizza joint. Decided that wasn't for us so walked a bit more and found one by chance. I had spaghetti with yellow tomatoes and cheese to start, Song had seafood pasta. I also had a glass of wine instead of a beer.
For main Song had swordfish, I had beef.
The starter was good but the main was bland - sliced beef with rocket and sweet potato crisps, no dressing or sauce. Cost about $100 and wasn't worth it.
Walked back to the hotel, fly out to Dubai tomorrow.
Tuesday, April 25, 2017
Day 23 - Lake Como
Woke up around 07:00, breakfast was a bit disappointing, no hot food.
The weather was a big change from yesterday - cold and cloudy. The plan
today was to get the daily ferry ticket that allowed hop on hop off so
we could explore the other towns. Hopefully the weather would mean fewer
people around.
The hotel had a sign up about a cycle tour of 65km but we decided against that.
I'd told the owner at breakfast we wanted to get the shuttle bus into the town, but when it turned up 4 others got in and there were no seats left for us, so we had to wait for him to go and come back. Don't know why I bothered booking.
The weather was pretty rotten - very grey and cold. At least it had the effect of keeping people away because in sharp contrast to the previous day there was hardly anyone around. No one waiting to buy a ticket and about 10 waiting to get on the ferry, compared to about 200 the day before. The ferry took us across to Varenna then was going back to Bellagio so we got off and then on to another going where we wanted. Got off that one at Menaggio and walked around the town, stopping for a coffee and taking more photos, although the weather made everything look grey.
Got back on a boat, it called in at several of the towns dotted along the lake, and decided to stay on and go back to Bellagio, which would have been a good idea if the boat went back there, but it didn't - it was going down the lake all the way to Como.
We had to get off at another stop and get the fast boat back, but didn't have long between ours stopping and the fast one arriving. If we missed it we'd have a 2 hour wait for the next one. Luckily we got the fast one and had a 10 minute wait at the next stop.
Back to Bellagio, had lunner (like brunch, only lunch / dinner, our own invention).
Found a restaurant away from the lake front hoping it wouldn't be over priced, but all of Bellagio is a tourist trap.
In a bit of a role reversal I ordered swordfish and Song ordered a pizza.
Mine was a small portion and not very nice, very fishy. Luckily Song couldn't eat all her pizza so I had some. I also had a beer, just for a change.
Cost $59. My small piece of fishy fish cost $25 and they will incur my wrath in the form of a bad Tripadvisor review.
The next shuttle bus was an hour away and we'd seen all of Bellagio so decided to get a taxi back to the hotel.
A bit disappointed with the weather, but nothing we could do about it, and at least it didn't rain.
Tomorrow we start our way back home - one night in Milan, then fly to Dubai and stay overnight, then home.
The hotel had a sign up about a cycle tour of 65km but we decided against that.
I'd told the owner at breakfast we wanted to get the shuttle bus into the town, but when it turned up 4 others got in and there were no seats left for us, so we had to wait for him to go and come back. Don't know why I bothered booking.
The weather was pretty rotten - very grey and cold. At least it had the effect of keeping people away because in sharp contrast to the previous day there was hardly anyone around. No one waiting to buy a ticket and about 10 waiting to get on the ferry, compared to about 200 the day before. The ferry took us across to Varenna then was going back to Bellagio so we got off and then on to another going where we wanted. Got off that one at Menaggio and walked around the town, stopping for a coffee and taking more photos, although the weather made everything look grey.
Got back on a boat, it called in at several of the towns dotted along the lake, and decided to stay on and go back to Bellagio, which would have been a good idea if the boat went back there, but it didn't - it was going down the lake all the way to Como.
We had to get off at another stop and get the fast boat back, but didn't have long between ours stopping and the fast one arriving. If we missed it we'd have a 2 hour wait for the next one. Luckily we got the fast one and had a 10 minute wait at the next stop.
Back to Bellagio, had lunner (like brunch, only lunch / dinner, our own invention).
Found a restaurant away from the lake front hoping it wouldn't be over priced, but all of Bellagio is a tourist trap.
In a bit of a role reversal I ordered swordfish and Song ordered a pizza.
Mine was a small portion and not very nice, very fishy. Luckily Song couldn't eat all her pizza so I had some. I also had a beer, just for a change.
Cost $59. My small piece of fishy fish cost $25 and they will incur my wrath in the form of a bad Tripadvisor review.
The next shuttle bus was an hour away and we'd seen all of Bellagio so decided to get a taxi back to the hotel.
A bit disappointed with the weather, but nothing we could do about it, and at least it didn't rain.
Tomorrow we start our way back home - one night in Milan, then fly to Dubai and stay overnight, then home.
Monday, April 24, 2017
Day 22 - Bergamo to Bellagio
Woke up around 07:30, decent hotel so a good breakfast although light on the hot food, just bacon and scrambled eggs.
Dumped the bags and walked to the funicular to go up to the 'high city' which is the old town on a hill.
Weather was alternating between sunny and cloudy, around 15c.
Got to the funicular and there was a massive queue, a tour bus had just dropped off about 60 students. Had to wait about 15 minutes to go up.
The town was very old, lots of churches. We went in a couple and because it was Sunday they were conducting mass. The interiors were incredible - the walls and ceilings covered with carvings of angels etc and frescos.
Carried on walking though narrow cobblestone streets enclosed by old, tall buildings and came across the main street that was packed with tourists. Bought some stuff from a bakery then headed back down to the hotel, grabbed an ice cream on the way.
Sat in the hotel for a while using the wifi then walked over to the train station.
Got the train to Lecco, travelled through some nice hills, then had to change to a train to Verenna then off the train onto a ferry, then finally a taxi to the hotel.
Despite being a Sunday there were trains every hour from Bergamo and we only had to wait 10 minutes at Lecco. Whoever was running the country made sure the trains ran on time.
Despite being up north in the hills it was warm, t shirt weather.
The train from Lecco skirted Lake Como, giving some beautiful views of the hills and lake, similar to Lake Koman, but went in and out of tunnels so they were few and far between.
However, when it was possible to see the lake - amazing views.
Got to Verenna, walked down to the ferry to be greeted by mayhem - about 200 people all waiting. Fortunately there were only 4 people in the ticket queue so we must have missed the rush. Got the tickets and waited for the ferry and got pushed on by the crowd. Despite this managed to get one seat.
Bellagio was also hectic, people everywhere. Our hotel wasn't in the town but up in the hills about 3km away, so we got a taxi.
The hotel room was ok, a decent size and the most incredible view of Lake Como, with a balcony.
We decided not to go back into the town because it was so busy and didn't know if we could get a table at any of the restaurants, so ate at the hotel.
We sat outside, on the terrace with the view of the lake, magnificent. Song had once again booked a fantastic hotel. We ordered a plate of cold meats and cheese to share, and I had a beer.
We each ordered a pizza, Song had vegetables and I had 4 cheeses. The pizzas were huge but we hadn't eaten since breakfast and I managed to finish mine.
There was an annoying kid in the restaurant so we decided to go back to the room.
Song said she preferred Lake Koman in Albania, but I think Como is better.
Unfortunately the wifi in the hotel is slow and I can't upload to Flickr, so it will be a couple of days.
Tomorrow the weather doesn't look as good, we're going to buy a day ticket to the ferry and bounce around the towns.
Dumped the bags and walked to the funicular to go up to the 'high city' which is the old town on a hill.
Weather was alternating between sunny and cloudy, around 15c.
Got to the funicular and there was a massive queue, a tour bus had just dropped off about 60 students. Had to wait about 15 minutes to go up.
The town was very old, lots of churches. We went in a couple and because it was Sunday they were conducting mass. The interiors were incredible - the walls and ceilings covered with carvings of angels etc and frescos.
Carried on walking though narrow cobblestone streets enclosed by old, tall buildings and came across the main street that was packed with tourists. Bought some stuff from a bakery then headed back down to the hotel, grabbed an ice cream on the way.
Sat in the hotel for a while using the wifi then walked over to the train station.
Got the train to Lecco, travelled through some nice hills, then had to change to a train to Verenna then off the train onto a ferry, then finally a taxi to the hotel.
Despite being a Sunday there were trains every hour from Bergamo and we only had to wait 10 minutes at Lecco. Whoever was running the country made sure the trains ran on time.
Despite being up north in the hills it was warm, t shirt weather.
The train from Lecco skirted Lake Como, giving some beautiful views of the hills and lake, similar to Lake Koman, but went in and out of tunnels so they were few and far between.
However, when it was possible to see the lake - amazing views.
Got to Verenna, walked down to the ferry to be greeted by mayhem - about 200 people all waiting. Fortunately there were only 4 people in the ticket queue so we must have missed the rush. Got the tickets and waited for the ferry and got pushed on by the crowd. Despite this managed to get one seat.
Bellagio was also hectic, people everywhere. Our hotel wasn't in the town but up in the hills about 3km away, so we got a taxi.
The hotel room was ok, a decent size and the most incredible view of Lake Como, with a balcony.
We decided not to go back into the town because it was so busy and didn't know if we could get a table at any of the restaurants, so ate at the hotel.
We sat outside, on the terrace with the view of the lake, magnificent. Song had once again booked a fantastic hotel. We ordered a plate of cold meats and cheese to share, and I had a beer.
We each ordered a pizza, Song had vegetables and I had 4 cheeses. The pizzas were huge but we hadn't eaten since breakfast and I managed to finish mine.
There was an annoying kid in the restaurant so we decided to go back to the room.
Song said she preferred Lake Koman in Albania, but I think Como is better.
Unfortunately the wifi in the hotel is slow and I can't upload to Flickr, so it will be a couple of days.
Tomorrow the weather doesn't look as good, we're going to buy a day ticket to the ferry and bounce around the towns.
Sunday, April 23, 2017
Day 21 - Verona to Bergamo
Slept well, comfy bed.
It was a bed and breakfast place but it charged 6 Euro each for breakfast which seemed a bit of a con. They may as well had said "The room is 100 Euro, if you want a bed that's 20 Euro extra each."
Left our bags (no charge) and went out.
Weather was perfect, around 11c but expected to hit 22.
Walked around and took photos, not too many tourists about because it was early.
Went out of the main part of the city to find somewhere non-touristy for breakfast and found a great little bakery. I had a pancake with banana, chocolate and maple syrup, and became diabetic on the spot.
Song had a bagel.
I also had the best coffee of the trip. Not surprising, this is Italy. So ordered another. Cost was about $21. The size of the pancake serving meant I couldn't have an ice cream again.
Carried on walking, checking off the tourist spots and also checking out all the attractive and stylish women (me) and men (Song). They are easy to spot among all the slobby tourists (me).
Some lovely old buildings, with decorative windows and doors.
Now excuse me for a minute while I get out my soapbox and rant. I understand that getting a photo of a sight will probably involve having other people in the shot. Other people have the right to take photos and I don't have a problem with that. What does annoy me is when selfish people decide that the best place for them to sit and rest and play with their phone is on the steps of the sight that others are taking photos of. It's happened several times so I end up having to try and find a place where I can eliminate them from the shot and end up missing a part. I think next time I'll just go up to them and blatantly take their photo, and tell them that they are far more interesting than the 800 year old church every one else is taking photos of.
Rant over.
Walked back to the hotel, picked up the bags and onto the train station to get the train to Bergamo. Another commuter train but we don't mind, we're on holiday so aren't in a hurry.
Got off the train where we had to change and the train wasn't for 50 minutes so had a coffee.
The train only took about 30 minutes but was packed, and there were loads of teenagers around and I guessed it was a university town, and I was right.
The hotel was very nice and had a bath, so I indulged.
The restaurants didn't open till 19:00 so had some time to relax.
Walked about 10 minutes to the best seafood restaurant in the place but the receptionist said they were fully booked. I hoped that was the case and not that he took one look at me and decided I wasn't fashionable enough. The first time we couldn't get into a place this trip.
Walked around looking for somewhere else, but there was a dearth of restaurants - plenty of ice cream shops and bars, a reflection of the demographic I suppose.
Eventually found one that looked good but was a bit expensive, but it was either that or an ice cream.
I ordered beef, Song had fish, and we had a pizza to share on the advice of the waiter. I decided against a beer.
The pizza was a small tomato with basil and came with a separate saucepan of mozzarella cheese that we added to each slice and it melted into the pizza. It was really good.
My beef was 2 pieces of steak on pureed spinach with Roquefort cheese, and was also really good. We got luckily stumbling upon it. Cost about $80.
Back to the hotel passing all the ice cream shops.
Tomorrow we get the train and a ferry to Bellagio where we stay for 2 nights and potter around Lake Como.
It was a bed and breakfast place but it charged 6 Euro each for breakfast which seemed a bit of a con. They may as well had said "The room is 100 Euro, if you want a bed that's 20 Euro extra each."
Left our bags (no charge) and went out.
Weather was perfect, around 11c but expected to hit 22.
Walked around and took photos, not too many tourists about because it was early.
Went out of the main part of the city to find somewhere non-touristy for breakfast and found a great little bakery. I had a pancake with banana, chocolate and maple syrup, and became diabetic on the spot.
Song had a bagel.
I also had the best coffee of the trip. Not surprising, this is Italy. So ordered another. Cost was about $21. The size of the pancake serving meant I couldn't have an ice cream again.
Carried on walking, checking off the tourist spots and also checking out all the attractive and stylish women (me) and men (Song). They are easy to spot among all the slobby tourists (me).
Some lovely old buildings, with decorative windows and doors.
Now excuse me for a minute while I get out my soapbox and rant. I understand that getting a photo of a sight will probably involve having other people in the shot. Other people have the right to take photos and I don't have a problem with that. What does annoy me is when selfish people decide that the best place for them to sit and rest and play with their phone is on the steps of the sight that others are taking photos of. It's happened several times so I end up having to try and find a place where I can eliminate them from the shot and end up missing a part. I think next time I'll just go up to them and blatantly take their photo, and tell them that they are far more interesting than the 800 year old church every one else is taking photos of.
Rant over.
Walked back to the hotel, picked up the bags and onto the train station to get the train to Bergamo. Another commuter train but we don't mind, we're on holiday so aren't in a hurry.
Got off the train where we had to change and the train wasn't for 50 minutes so had a coffee.
The train only took about 30 minutes but was packed, and there were loads of teenagers around and I guessed it was a university town, and I was right.
The hotel was very nice and had a bath, so I indulged.
The restaurants didn't open till 19:00 so had some time to relax.
Walked about 10 minutes to the best seafood restaurant in the place but the receptionist said they were fully booked. I hoped that was the case and not that he took one look at me and decided I wasn't fashionable enough. The first time we couldn't get into a place this trip.
Walked around looking for somewhere else, but there was a dearth of restaurants - plenty of ice cream shops and bars, a reflection of the demographic I suppose.
Eventually found one that looked good but was a bit expensive, but it was either that or an ice cream.
I ordered beef, Song had fish, and we had a pizza to share on the advice of the waiter. I decided against a beer.
The pizza was a small tomato with basil and came with a separate saucepan of mozzarella cheese that we added to each slice and it melted into the pizza. It was really good.
My beef was 2 pieces of steak on pureed spinach with Roquefort cheese, and was also really good. We got luckily stumbling upon it. Cost about $80.
Back to the hotel passing all the ice cream shops.
Tomorrow we get the train and a ferry to Bellagio where we stay for 2 nights and potter around Lake Como.
Saturday, April 22, 2017
Day 20 - Trieste to Verona
Didn't sleep very well, there was a street light outside the window and the curtains weren't heavy so the room was light, plus the walls were thin so I could hear all the movements and activities of the other guests.
The breakfast wasn't good either - no hot food, just cereal and yoghurt.
Checked out and walked to the train station to wait. The first train of the trip. I prefer trains to buses, much more comfortable.
Got on the train, it was quite busy and sat and relaxed. Had a bit of a panic when I thought we'd missed the station where we had to change trains but looked at the map and realised we changed in Venice where the train terminated.
Got off at Venice, 2 trains in the next 10 minutes to Verona so jogged to the platform to get the next one. It was quite full and looked like a commuter train - the seats were packed close and it was a double decker train. The trip was only about an hour so not bad.
2 hours later we pulled into Verona having stopped at every station in northern Italy.
Walked about 20 minutes to the hotel, discovered that we don't have a bathroom in the room, it's shared. Luckily we're the only people staying, so I won't frighten any other guests if I have to go to the toilet in the middle of the night.
Walked into the main part of the town - a Roman coliseum, and lots of magnificent buildings. Walked around more, visited Juliet's balcony. The whole centre was packed, tons of tourists as well as locals with their dogs.
Found a restaurant on Tripadvisor. We shared a seafood platter that had shell fish, prawns, calamari and pasta that was very good. I had pork with ham, truffle and almond, Song had pike with polenta. I also had a beer.
The restaurant was playing some of my favourite Italian tunes.
My meal was a massive pork chop covered with loads of ham and almonds and some potatoes and it defeated me, I couldn't eat it all. I had wanted an ice cream on the way back but no way was that happening.
Back to the hotel, sleep.
Friday, April 21, 2017
Day 19 - Ljubljana to Trieste
Filled up with breakfast, sun was shining but still cold, went back to
the old town to wander and take more photos. Walked up the hill to the
castle but didn't go in, we'd seen plenty of fortresses up to now.
Walked to the bus station to buy tickets to Trieste on the next bus but were told there was only one seat. I told Song I'd see her there.
Actually the guy said we could try to buy tickets on the bus which was due in 10 minutes so went and stood outside.
45 minutes later we were still waiting, deciding whether to continue to wait and try our luck or to get a later one. We overheard an English couple who were also trying to buy on the bus and as we were there first made sure we were in front of them. All's fair in love, war and European bus travel.
Eventually we decided we'd had enough of standing in the cold so bought tickets for a later bus, and if the other one turned up as we were walking away, tough.
Went back to the hotel and they let us leave the bags, then bumped into the Chinese couple we met on the lake trip the day before - they were also waiting for a bus but were told there were delays of about 3 hours in Zagreb. Hopefully by the time our bus was leaving it would be cleared
Wandered back into the old town and found a restaurant that was warm. They had a limited menu but we weren't fussy. Song had smoked Slovenian sausage, I had potato goulash with smoked Slovenian sausage. Mine was ok, good for a cold day. We sat in the restaurant for over an hour, it was quiet, the owner playing dice with his friends, MTV classic on the TV playing songs from the 80s and 90s, quite pleasant and relaxing. By the time we left it had warmed up a bit to a balmy 11c.
Went back to the hotel, waited a while in the lobby then to the bus station - the bus was on time and was very nice, new, and hardly anyone on it.
The views weren't much, one over a valley, but when we turned a corner got some fabulous ones over Trieste.
There's not a lot in Trieste really, but just a short walk away was the main square, which was very impressive - some magnificent buildings and a wide open area overlooking the sea.
Took photos, Song wasn't hungry so went back to the apartment, I found a restaurant next to the canal and was directed to a table. To say the staff were laid back is an understatement - young and covered with tattoos they were happily chatting among themselves for 5 minutes before I had to interrupt and ask for a menu.
I ordered a burger (only the second of the trip, quite a record) and a beer (lost count). The beer menu had bottles for about 14 Euro, about $20, but luckily these were 'special' and I just had a common one. There is no smoking in restaurants in Italy, but they do allow e-cigarettes, which I find odd. So although there wasn't the annoying clouds of smoke, there were annoying clouds of various flavours of vaping from hipsters.
The waiter told me my meal would be a while because the kitchen had been closed, which made me wonder why he gave me the menu and accepted my order in the first place.
The sun was going down so ate the meal and waited so I could get some more photos of the square lit up.
I also think I went to the most expensive burger place in Italy because it cost $36. The beer cost $10 and I thought it was the cheap one. I think the cheap part of the trip is over.
Took some photos then went back to the apartment.
Walked to the bus station to buy tickets to Trieste on the next bus but were told there was only one seat. I told Song I'd see her there.
Actually the guy said we could try to buy tickets on the bus which was due in 10 minutes so went and stood outside.
45 minutes later we were still waiting, deciding whether to continue to wait and try our luck or to get a later one. We overheard an English couple who were also trying to buy on the bus and as we were there first made sure we were in front of them. All's fair in love, war and European bus travel.
Eventually we decided we'd had enough of standing in the cold so bought tickets for a later bus, and if the other one turned up as we were walking away, tough.
Went back to the hotel and they let us leave the bags, then bumped into the Chinese couple we met on the lake trip the day before - they were also waiting for a bus but were told there were delays of about 3 hours in Zagreb. Hopefully by the time our bus was leaving it would be cleared
Wandered back into the old town and found a restaurant that was warm. They had a limited menu but we weren't fussy. Song had smoked Slovenian sausage, I had potato goulash with smoked Slovenian sausage. Mine was ok, good for a cold day. We sat in the restaurant for over an hour, it was quiet, the owner playing dice with his friends, MTV classic on the TV playing songs from the 80s and 90s, quite pleasant and relaxing. By the time we left it had warmed up a bit to a balmy 11c.
Went back to the hotel, waited a while in the lobby then to the bus station - the bus was on time and was very nice, new, and hardly anyone on it.
The views weren't much, one over a valley, but when we turned a corner got some fabulous ones over Trieste.
There's not a lot in Trieste really, but just a short walk away was the main square, which was very impressive - some magnificent buildings and a wide open area overlooking the sea.
Took photos, Song wasn't hungry so went back to the apartment, I found a restaurant next to the canal and was directed to a table. To say the staff were laid back is an understatement - young and covered with tattoos they were happily chatting among themselves for 5 minutes before I had to interrupt and ask for a menu.
I ordered a burger (only the second of the trip, quite a record) and a beer (lost count). The beer menu had bottles for about 14 Euro, about $20, but luckily these were 'special' and I just had a common one. There is no smoking in restaurants in Italy, but they do allow e-cigarettes, which I find odd. So although there wasn't the annoying clouds of smoke, there were annoying clouds of various flavours of vaping from hipsters.
The waiter told me my meal would be a while because the kitchen had been closed, which made me wonder why he gave me the menu and accepted my order in the first place.
The sun was going down so ate the meal and waited so I could get some more photos of the square lit up.
I also think I went to the most expensive burger place in Italy because it cost $36. The beer cost $10 and I thought it was the cheap one. I think the cheap part of the trip is over.
Took some photos then went back to the apartment.
Thursday, April 20, 2017
Day 18 - Ljubljana
Woke up at 07:00, down to breakfast. The hotel fittings were looking a
bit tired, a lot of wood panels and the bathroom wasn't as modern as the
others we've had, but it was decent enough.
They did put on a good breakfast though. I had orange juice (2), coffee, muesli, toast, bacon and eggs, yoghurt and a pastry. Made a bit of a change from the cold meats on offer at the other places.
It was a bit cloudy and cold, 2c, and we walked around to the bus station to get the bus to Lake Bled. I also discovered that we can't get a train to Trieste tomorrow, it's another bus, but it's only about 90km so won't be a problem.
Got the bus ok, travelled through pleasant hills getting closer to the mountains covered in snow, still cold. Slovenia is much more attractive than the other Balkan countries; we passed through towns that were busy, clean, no abandoned or half completed houses. The scenery was nice - lots of pine trees, small hills and the mountains.
It reminded us of Switzerland or Bavaria - chalets and fields.
Arrived at the lake and it was bloody freezing and a bit windy. Walked around a bit, quite picturesque but not nearly as impressive as Lake Koman in Albania, although the mountain setting was nice.
Went into a souvenir shop and bought a fridge magnet and some chocolate. Tried to find out how we get to a small island in the lake - we'd bought a ticket but the instructions were a bit vague. Eventually found the tourist information office and they told us, but it wasn't easy to find. We were joined on the boat by 3 Chinese students and Song started talking to them so I asked if she knew them from China but she didn't.
Arrived on the island after about 20 minutes, had a look in the church and even got to ring the bell, that's a first.
Climbed the clock tower then sat in the cafe for a while where we had a coffee and traditional cake that was part of the ticket price. The cafe was playing some of my favourite Slovenian tunes.
More Chinese tourists turned up but Song didn't know them either.
Used their wifi - super fast. The internet in Kosovo and Slovenia is faster than Australia.
Left the warm comfort of the cafe and went back to the boat. The sun came out for a while but it didn't get much warmer, and the trip back across the lake was nice with the mountains and the castle on the hill.
Got the bus back, an hour and a half, stopped at the hotel to drop the bag and then a 5 minute walk to the old town. It was still very cold and cloudy.
The old town was delightful - reminiscent of towns like Warsaw. Old art nouveau buildings, a river, cobblestone streets. All very clean and well maintained. We came across what looked like a restaurant opening, a crowd of people drinking wine and people dressed in traditional Slovenian costume singing. There were loads of restaurants, as well as ice-cream shops. They also had small buses ferrying people around that were free.
I liked Ljubljana, had a nice atmosphere although it could have been warmer. I heard a lot of English people, so I think it is trendy for them to come here at the moment.
Stopped in a restaurant I looked up on Tripadvisor, the number 5 in the town. I had Mediterranean lamb and a beer, Song had grilled octopus.
Both were good, my lamb was a welcome change from the generic meat dishes in the other parts of the Balkans. Also, and what a joy, there was no smoking in the restaurant. Cost about $68.
Went back outside, still very cold so hurried back to the hotel.
They did put on a good breakfast though. I had orange juice (2), coffee, muesli, toast, bacon and eggs, yoghurt and a pastry. Made a bit of a change from the cold meats on offer at the other places.
It was a bit cloudy and cold, 2c, and we walked around to the bus station to get the bus to Lake Bled. I also discovered that we can't get a train to Trieste tomorrow, it's another bus, but it's only about 90km so won't be a problem.
Got the bus ok, travelled through pleasant hills getting closer to the mountains covered in snow, still cold. Slovenia is much more attractive than the other Balkan countries; we passed through towns that were busy, clean, no abandoned or half completed houses. The scenery was nice - lots of pine trees, small hills and the mountains.
It reminded us of Switzerland or Bavaria - chalets and fields.
Arrived at the lake and it was bloody freezing and a bit windy. Walked around a bit, quite picturesque but not nearly as impressive as Lake Koman in Albania, although the mountain setting was nice.
Went into a souvenir shop and bought a fridge magnet and some chocolate. Tried to find out how we get to a small island in the lake - we'd bought a ticket but the instructions were a bit vague. Eventually found the tourist information office and they told us, but it wasn't easy to find. We were joined on the boat by 3 Chinese students and Song started talking to them so I asked if she knew them from China but she didn't.
Arrived on the island after about 20 minutes, had a look in the church and even got to ring the bell, that's a first.
Climbed the clock tower then sat in the cafe for a while where we had a coffee and traditional cake that was part of the ticket price. The cafe was playing some of my favourite Slovenian tunes.
More Chinese tourists turned up but Song didn't know them either.
Used their wifi - super fast. The internet in Kosovo and Slovenia is faster than Australia.
Left the warm comfort of the cafe and went back to the boat. The sun came out for a while but it didn't get much warmer, and the trip back across the lake was nice with the mountains and the castle on the hill.
Got the bus back, an hour and a half, stopped at the hotel to drop the bag and then a 5 minute walk to the old town. It was still very cold and cloudy.
The old town was delightful - reminiscent of towns like Warsaw. Old art nouveau buildings, a river, cobblestone streets. All very clean and well maintained. We came across what looked like a restaurant opening, a crowd of people drinking wine and people dressed in traditional Slovenian costume singing. There were loads of restaurants, as well as ice-cream shops. They also had small buses ferrying people around that were free.
I liked Ljubljana, had a nice atmosphere although it could have been warmer. I heard a lot of English people, so I think it is trendy for them to come here at the moment.
Stopped in a restaurant I looked up on Tripadvisor, the number 5 in the town. I had Mediterranean lamb and a beer, Song had grilled octopus.
Both were good, my lamb was a welcome change from the generic meat dishes in the other parts of the Balkans. Also, and what a joy, there was no smoking in the restaurant. Cost about $68.
Went back outside, still very cold so hurried back to the hotel.
Wednesday, April 19, 2017
Day 17 - Skopje to Ljbubljana
Woke up early, had breakfast then walked into the old town again because
the weather was nice and sunny and we wanted to get better photos.
Pottered around for a while looking in the shops, then went back to the hotel to get the taxi to the airport to fly to Ljubljana in Slovenia.
Got to the airport with plenty of time to spare, we were the only people through passport control, then waited to board.
We flew Serbia Air; I'm a bit wary about the small airlines - the pilots of the Qantas A380 flights to London probably did pretty well at pilot school. The ones who fly Serbia Air between Skopje and Belgrade, not so much. The plane was pretty small, a 2 engined turbo prop - not the smallest we've been on, but certainly one of them (an ATR-72-202). The in flight meal was a plain bread roll and small bottle of water. The entertainment was the cabin crew performing traditional Macedonian folk music (not really, but I wouldn't have been surprised).
Fortunately the flight was only just over an hour, but we had a 2 hour layover in Belgrade.
Had a meal of chicken and mushroom carbonara pasta (me) and pizza (Song). There wasn't much choice, but it was actually pretty good for an airport - they cooked it fresh. Also had an ice cream to use up the Serbian cash.
The plane was the same type as the first leg, was quite full and we were greeted by the world's oldest flight attendant. The flight was only an hour and a bit long but I wasn't sure she was going to make it. I think she was the attendant on the Wright brother's flight.
The obligatory screaming baby sat behind us but luckily I had taken out my noise cancelling headphones and also managed to score a seat further in front, gallantly leaving Song behind.
The Ljubljana airport is set amongst some mountains, and the sun was setting behind the snow capped peaks, very pretty.
We aimed to catch the public bus and walk about 10 minutes to the hotel so stood at the bus stop and were approached by a guy saying he would take us in a mini bus directly to the hotel for 9 Euro each. The bus was 4 Euro each but after the experience of Skopje didn't fancy walking in a strange city in the dark, and the guy didn't look axe-murdery so we agreed.
Took about 40 minutes, didn't see much because it was dark.
Tomorrow is Lake Bled and looking around the old town.
Pottered around for a while looking in the shops, then went back to the hotel to get the taxi to the airport to fly to Ljubljana in Slovenia.
Got to the airport with plenty of time to spare, we were the only people through passport control, then waited to board.
We flew Serbia Air; I'm a bit wary about the small airlines - the pilots of the Qantas A380 flights to London probably did pretty well at pilot school. The ones who fly Serbia Air between Skopje and Belgrade, not so much. The plane was pretty small, a 2 engined turbo prop - not the smallest we've been on, but certainly one of them (an ATR-72-202). The in flight meal was a plain bread roll and small bottle of water. The entertainment was the cabin crew performing traditional Macedonian folk music (not really, but I wouldn't have been surprised).
Fortunately the flight was only just over an hour, but we had a 2 hour layover in Belgrade.
Had a meal of chicken and mushroom carbonara pasta (me) and pizza (Song). There wasn't much choice, but it was actually pretty good for an airport - they cooked it fresh. Also had an ice cream to use up the Serbian cash.
The plane was the same type as the first leg, was quite full and we were greeted by the world's oldest flight attendant. The flight was only an hour and a bit long but I wasn't sure she was going to make it. I think she was the attendant on the Wright brother's flight.
The obligatory screaming baby sat behind us but luckily I had taken out my noise cancelling headphones and also managed to score a seat further in front, gallantly leaving Song behind.
The Ljubljana airport is set amongst some mountains, and the sun was setting behind the snow capped peaks, very pretty.
We aimed to catch the public bus and walk about 10 minutes to the hotel so stood at the bus stop and were approached by a guy saying he would take us in a mini bus directly to the hotel for 9 Euro each. The bus was 4 Euro each but after the experience of Skopje didn't fancy walking in a strange city in the dark, and the guy didn't look axe-murdery so we agreed.
Took about 40 minutes, didn't see much because it was dark.
Tomorrow is Lake Bled and looking around the old town.
Monday, April 17, 2017
Day 16 - Skopje
Woke up around 07:00, breakfast was ok, muesli, toast and yoghurt.
Walked into the town again, then over the stone bridge towards the old town, past more statues and fountains. An old local guy stopped me and asked if I spoke English, so I said yes and he proceeded to speak to me in another language, then when I said I didn't understand he said sorry, shook my hand and walked off.
Bought a fridge magnet and stopped off for a coffee, everywhere takes Euro so we don't need to change any money. The coffee was so strong it practically burnt through the cup.
Song ordered some kind of cake so naturally I had most of it.
Carried on through the old town which was very pleasant - lots of small shops, mostly jewelry and cafes, so if you didn't want gold or coffee you were out of luck. Song stopped in a few jewelry shops and promised the owner she'd be back, although we had no intention of that so had to plan our route back so we didn't go past them again.
The area was bigger than the Prizren and even Sarajevo old towns - lots of streets, but not as busy. It was a change from the other side of town and made for a nice walk. A local offered to take a photo of us and I usually decline because I have visions of handing over the camera only for them to turn and leg it up the road, but we let him this time. The weather had turned, it was about 16c and cloudy, but not unpleasant.
Came across a market selling everything from toilet seats to phones with broken screens. CD stalls were blasting out some of my favourite Macedonian tunes. Not really needing any of these, walked up to the fortress - they do like their fortresses here.
The entrance to the fortress was typical of the place - rubbish everywhere.
We walked along the walls which looked as if they had been repaired recently and were good, but not with great views. The rest of it was appalling; more rubbish, rubble and rusty scaffolding, completely overgrown with weeds, 2 abandoned buildings with graffiti. There were a couple of buildings that looked like they might be museums one day, but were unfinished. I don't understand why they don't spend a bit of money, I think virtually every visitor to Skopje would go to the fortress, and they are greeted by a horrible and unpleasant mess. There were some towers that were permanently closed with wire, one that overlooked the old town, so we couldn't get photos of that. Very disappointed that it was in such a state.
Went back to the main square, stunned at the contrast, looking for somewhere to eat. Most places were cafes and ice cream parlours, but found a restaurant and asked to sit at the back away from the smokers. We realised why so many people smoke - a packet of 20 cost $1.50.
Ordered an appetiser plate of local food to share - ham, pastrami, cheese, mushrooms - most of which was salty.
Decided on pizzas. I had pepperoni, Song had mushroom, and we opted for the small. Just as well, they were huge and we only managed to eat half each. Cost $24.
Having seen everything in Skopje went back to the hotel to watch TV.
Tomorrow we fly to Slovenia.
Walked into the town again, then over the stone bridge towards the old town, past more statues and fountains. An old local guy stopped me and asked if I spoke English, so I said yes and he proceeded to speak to me in another language, then when I said I didn't understand he said sorry, shook my hand and walked off.
Bought a fridge magnet and stopped off for a coffee, everywhere takes Euro so we don't need to change any money. The coffee was so strong it practically burnt through the cup.
Song ordered some kind of cake so naturally I had most of it.
Carried on through the old town which was very pleasant - lots of small shops, mostly jewelry and cafes, so if you didn't want gold or coffee you were out of luck. Song stopped in a few jewelry shops and promised the owner she'd be back, although we had no intention of that so had to plan our route back so we didn't go past them again.
The area was bigger than the Prizren and even Sarajevo old towns - lots of streets, but not as busy. It was a change from the other side of town and made for a nice walk. A local offered to take a photo of us and I usually decline because I have visions of handing over the camera only for them to turn and leg it up the road, but we let him this time. The weather had turned, it was about 16c and cloudy, but not unpleasant.
Came across a market selling everything from toilet seats to phones with broken screens. CD stalls were blasting out some of my favourite Macedonian tunes. Not really needing any of these, walked up to the fortress - they do like their fortresses here.
The entrance to the fortress was typical of the place - rubbish everywhere.
We walked along the walls which looked as if they had been repaired recently and were good, but not with great views. The rest of it was appalling; more rubbish, rubble and rusty scaffolding, completely overgrown with weeds, 2 abandoned buildings with graffiti. There were a couple of buildings that looked like they might be museums one day, but were unfinished. I don't understand why they don't spend a bit of money, I think virtually every visitor to Skopje would go to the fortress, and they are greeted by a horrible and unpleasant mess. There were some towers that were permanently closed with wire, one that overlooked the old town, so we couldn't get photos of that. Very disappointed that it was in such a state.
Went back to the main square, stunned at the contrast, looking for somewhere to eat. Most places were cafes and ice cream parlours, but found a restaurant and asked to sit at the back away from the smokers. We realised why so many people smoke - a packet of 20 cost $1.50.
Ordered an appetiser plate of local food to share - ham, pastrami, cheese, mushrooms - most of which was salty.
Decided on pizzas. I had pepperoni, Song had mushroom, and we opted for the small. Just as well, they were huge and we only managed to eat half each. Cost $24.
Having seen everything in Skopje went back to the hotel to watch TV.
Tomorrow we fly to Slovenia.
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