Day 5 - Launceston to St Helens to Hobart

Slept really well, then up and out by 08:30 to visit the Bay of Fires in Eastern Tasmania.
Road was good, hit a couple of road works but didn’t slow us down much. Saw lots of nice valleys and hills, the weather was overcast but not too bad.
We saw a couple of signs advising that “St Mary’s Pass is open” - as we continued we encountered a very steep and twisty road with high cliff faces and netting. I guessed there had been a rock fall that blocked the road; if it had still been blocked we would have had to go back.
Made it in good time and decided to eat in St Helen’s before heading up the coast to try and find the fiery thing.
There wasn’t much choice but found a bakery and had some sandwiches and a ham roll.
Followed the gps and after 10 minutes saw lots of signs saying “Bay of Fires Conservation Area” so turned down a dirt track to the beach.
Disembarked, headed to the beach and saw tons of rocks with red lichen, giving the appearance of flames - hence Bay of Fires. Very impressive.
Lots of photos were taken, and we were able to climb onto the rocks and see more along the coast.
It was still overcast but ok.
After several hundred photos were taken, headed back to Hobart, this time taking the coast road. After a while the sun came out and as we drove encountered stunning bays and beaches as well as valleys. Incredible scenery.
Stopped off for a leg stretch and toilet stop and carried on to Hobart, arrived at the predicted time and checked into the rooms - the same block as before but a different company. Drove about 750km in 2 days.
The car was a bit grubby from the dirt roads so we took it to a car wash to avoid a cleaning charge and filled up with petrol.
Parked the car near the rental place and looked for somewhere to eat, but after wandering around for a bit decided to phone a seafood restaurant and managed to get a table.
I had seafood pie, Song had octopus and chips and Victoria had seafood linguine.
All were excellent, a lot better than the other place we went to.
Back to the room and crashed, fly out at 13:30 tomorrow.

Day 4 - Hobart to Launceston

Slept well, worn out after yesterday, had a quick breakfast then walked 15 minutes to get the car. Made sure it didn’t have any damage and drove back to the apartment to pick Song and Victoria up.
Headed out of Hobart, traffic not bad. Zipped along until we hit some roadworks so down to single lane and speed of 60 kmh.
Very annoying, it went on for about 20km. We’d decided to stop at a small town to stretch our legs and turned off just as the roadworks ended.
Wandered around, saw an antiques shop so went over but they were shut. Probably for the best because the shop was filthy - there was a bird’s nest in the window and lots of twigs and poo on some of the items, plus loads of cobwebs and dust.
Carried on in the car, weather still great, and turned off to go via some lakes since Launceston was only a couple of hours away so thought we’d go the long way around and see some scenery.
After a few metres we hit a gravel road - dang - there was something on the rental agreement about it, so I checked and it didn’t say not to go on them but there was a charge if I had an accident.
It was 20km so decided to chance it.
It actually wasn’t too bad, and passed a few other cars - we had a Nissan X-Trail SUV which I’d deliberately chosen just in case. I’d also pre loaded the Google map of Tasmania, again just in case.
Bounced along for a while through dry trees and rocks on either side of the road, then came across the lakes - a bit disappointing. Carried on down the dirt road and then realised I might be going the wrong way so checked the map, luckily had just turned off so turned around and headed off down another dirt track for another 25KM.
The landscape was still mostly dead trees and rocks, not very interesting and Song and Victoria went to sleep.
Trying to take the scenic route was a bit of a let down.
Finally arrived back onto tarmac and drove a bit until we hit Miena, a small town but there was a pub which served food so I had a warm chicken salad, Song had salmon salad and Victoria had a fisherman’s basket (fried seafood and chips).
Back on the road, and we saw the Great Lake to our left, and kept seeing it as we drove alongside. Started to climb, and were soon driving along winding roads amongst the trees, catching glimpses of the lake every so often. As we reached the top, there was a sign for a lookout, so stopped.
Amazing. An incredible view across the lake, and with the weather perfect we could see for miles. Stayed and took photos, then back in the car and started to head downhill. Lots of valleys and mountains, and we could see Cradle Mountain in the distance.
Stopped off at Deloraine for a stretch and loo stop, then just 30 minutes to Launceston, we arrived around 16:30. Song and Victoria slept about half the trip from Hobart.
The accommodation in Launceston was a bit ropey - a motel on a main road, and the room smelt of curry. A rare stumble by Song. But it was clean and had a good view of the city and river.
Decided we needed to walk since we had been in the car all day, Song remembered a nice spot when she visited 10 years before, the Cataract Gorge so drove 10 minutes to that. It was pretty spectacular- a river that had a couple of small waterfalls and ran through a gorge into a basin before flowing out again, and there was also a suspension bridge that you could walk across over one of the waterfalls, which we did.
Walked around a bit and came across a couple of peacocks and a wallaby just sitting under a bush.
Googled for somewhere to eat, a lot of places were shut because it was Monday, but one of the top rated places was open so thought we’d see if we could get in, and we did.
I had a Thai Beef Salad, Song had Salt and Pepper Calamari and Victoria sea food pasta. All were good.
Drove back to the curry-scented room and I watched the World Cup final, I’d managed to avoid the result all day because we’d been in the car (Argentina won against France on penalties).
Watched a bit of TV, then bed.
Tomorrow we are going to Bay of Fires, the main reason we came to Launceston, then back to Hobart, a lot of driving for me and sleeping for Song and Victoria.

Day 3 - Bruny Island

Slept well, but had to get up at 06:30 to get ready for a trip to Bruny Island.
Song had booked the apartment which was only 5 minutes away from the trip start, so a quick couple of slices of toast and then down to the bus.
Drove for about an hour, the weather was nice and clear but a bit cold, saw some nice views of bays and then arrived at the ferry, which was basically a flat deck, but apparently this was the backup ferry, there are others with 2 decks.
Ferry took about 10 minutes across a small channel of water, got off the coach for a couple of minutes to stretch our legs, then drove for about an hour to a stop where there is a thin spit of land between the water, called the Neck. Climbed 233 steps and had a fantastic view across 4 bays, the sun was out and it was clear so could see for miles.
Back on the bus, passing several beautiful beaches and bays; a lot of Tasmanians have holiday homes here. They ranged from nice stone houses with manicured lawns to 1980s caravans on a patch of mud. As we drove along the driver stopped and pointed out a white cat on someone’s lawn. Not really interesting, but it turned out to be a white wallaby, quite rare (about 40 are thought to be on the island). Arrived at the tour company building which had a restaurant and had a free muffin and cup of tea. Song realised she’d left her water bottle back outside the tour office, so had to buy a bottle of water on the way.
The main part of the trip was a boat jaunt along the coast, and three smallish boats (seated about 30) were waiting for us by the dock. We were told it would be cold, and some spray, so we were all given bright red waterproof jackets that almost touched the ground.
We were told that the swell was around 1.5 - 1.8 meters, which was small; sometimes they go out in swells of up to 4m.
We headed out of the bay, bouncing around a bit, then left the bay and into the Southern Ocean - and it felt as if we were standing in front of an industrial sized fan blowing freezing air in our faces.
The waves looked pretty big to me, but the boat was pretty stable except for the odd drop now and then, which elicited lots of “oooh’s” from the passengers. After a while a few people, including Victoria, weren’t feeling too well and went to the back of the boat which was supposedly more stable.
The weather was perfect, clear skies and sunny, but cold. Speeding along in the boat made it even colder, but I had a t shirt, jumper, down coat and bright red windproof jacket on and the only really cold thing was my face.
We kept close to the coast and stopped at various places - sea caves, cliff faces, blow holes etc where we could stand up and take pictures. We then headed over to some small islands where there was a colony of male Fur Seals - the females were at a different place further south. We got quite close, and some seals were swimming just near the boat. As we drifted along the rocks, we suddenly caught the smell of them - basically a public toilet.  
Since the weather was so good, the driver took us a bit further down, giving us great views of the cliffs and landscape. The rock is called Jurassic Dolerite, about 180 million years old. We were in the national park, and there is basically nothing here but nature - no walking tracks etc. There were also no trees, nothing can grow there.
We then headed back to the restaurant, pushed away from the coast and headed out to sea and got some great views of the island. The swell was about the same, but it got colder, if that was possible. The trip back took about 30 minutes and was pretty uncomfortable - not the motion, but the cold wind.
Finally turned into the bay and slowed down and started to warm up. Our boat was last so we sat on the water for a few minutes as the other boats unloaded, and watching all the people walk in a line up the dock in their red coats made them look like a cult, or a scene from The Handmaid’s Tale.
Headed up to the restaurant, now we were on land and out of the wind we warmed up even though it was probably only around 14C it felt a lot warmed. Removed the red coats and sat down for lunch (fish and chips for me, Pumpkin soup and salmon role for Song and Victoria).
Back on the bus then an uneventful drive back to the tour office in Hobart, had a bit of a snooze.
The tour office was still open so I said I’d go and ask if Song’s water bottle had been handed in, when Victoria saw it still in the place where it was left, it had been sat there all day.
Went back to the apartment to relax, then over the road to the restaurant we’d booked back in October, one of the better seafood places.
It was quite nice inside, with a view of the marina, but the food wasn’t great. I had fish and chips (again), Song and Victoria shared some oysters (I tried one, still don’t see the attraction), then Victoria had salmon and Song had seafood laksa. I also had a beer, a Cascade Stout.
My fish and chips was average, same as any you’d get in a pub. Song couldn’t eat her laksa it was so salty. Victoria said her salmon was nice but she might just have been being polite.
Left the restaurant and went for a walk to Battery Point, then back to the apartment, tried to stop for an ice cream (for Victoria, not me) but they had just shut.
Felling pretty exhausted, went to bed early.
Hiring a car tomorrow and driving to Launceston.

Day 2 - Broadmeadows to Hobart

 Didn’t sleep well, a combination of the unfamiliar bed and anxiety over the potential of yet another flight cancellation.
We had an alarm call set for 04:00 but I set my phone alarm for 03:55 just in case.
Woke up, shower, out into the cold and dark and hopped onto the shuttle bus. Checked in, told them the woman yesterday said we would be given breakfast vouchers (she didn’t, but I wanted to see if I could score some more). Got another 2 $8 vouchers, Take that, Jetstar.
Through security, 2 bacon and egg McMuffins later, watching the departures board like a hawk just in case it was cancelled again, but finally got the boarding gate.
Very short flight, they said it was full but there was a row of empty seats behind us so I hopped into that and tried to sleep but didn’t manage it. Stepped off the plane into a cold, drizzly grey morning, 10C - apparently Melbourne was going to be 22C and sunny.
Through to the baggage pick up (we only have hand luggage), and met up with our travelling companion, the friend of the daughter of a friend of Song’s (got that?) who is studying medicine in Sydney who we know very well, she used to live in Melbourne. Her name is Victoria.
Got a taxi to the apartment where we are staying, opened the door and wow. Song booked an amazing place. Just next to the wharf, a 2-bed, 2-bath apartment with a huge lounge and dining room with a laundry.
Made a cup of tea and then headed out to the Salamanca Market, and JB Hi Fi because I forgot to pack a connector to download my TV shows to my Mac.
Weather was cold and overcast, down coats were needed. The market was about a 10 minute walk away, and on the way we saw a cruise ship docked, the SS Covid Incubator (actually the Queen Elizabeth).
The market was packed, obviously people off the ship as well as other tourists like us.
I asked one couple if they were off the boat, they said yes so I asked where they were from - “Melbourne”. Oh. I asked where they were going after Tasmania. “Melbourne”. Adventurous travellers.
I followed Song and Victoria through the crowd, occasionally stopping to present my backpack for them to load up their purchases. By the end of the market I felt like a pack mule.
Went back to the room to dump the stuff, picked up a lobster, some scallops and prawns for dinner on the way and then googled for somewhere to eat lunch, couldn’t really find anywhere that looked decent so Song suggested a sausage from the market, which we did.
We’d earlier booked a trip to Richmond, an old town that just about everyone visits, so after lunch jumped on the bus.
Took about 20 minutes to Richmond, the bus driver telling bad jokes as they do. Stopped off at the oldest bridge in Australia and the oldest Catholic Church nearby.
Back to the main town where the bus parked for a couple of hours to let us wander.
Rain held off, Song and Victoria went into every antique shop in Richmond while I waited outside, nearly falling asleep a couple of times, the early start catching up with me.
Stopped off to have a scone and cup of earl grey tea at a cafe before heading back to the bus and back to the apartment.
Realised we needed something to go with the seafood so walked to the grocers and grabbed some salad stuff, then popped into the place where we’d booked a trip to Bruny Island tomorrow to check on the details. They said we should have breakfast because they don’t serve anything till 10:30, so walked back to the grocer to get some bread and Vegemite for toast.
Had dinner, and had an early night - Victoria had been up since 03:00, we had been up since 04:00 and we were all pretty tired.
Another early start tomorrow, we have to be at the trip place for 07:00, but luckily it’s only a 5 minute walk.

Day 1 - Short trip to Tasmania / Broadmeadows

Finally travelling again after 6 months, spending 6 days in Tasmania.
Packed, discovered that the Skybus has restarted running from near the train station which is handy - 42 minutes to the airport which saves us having to walk - train - change - train - walk - bus; now just walk - bus.  
Having read about all the delays at the airport due to staff shortages decided to get there early, so got the 07:00 bus, arrived bang on time at 07:43 ish.
Checked in the day before, so just needed to get through security and then sit for a while before boarding.  
The airport wasn’t too busy, the queues were small and moving quickly. Just about to queue up when I got a text “We are sorry to tell you that your 09:40 flight to Hobart has been cancelled”. They forgot to add the middle finger emoji but I assumed it was implied.  
Welcome to the new normal of travel, where flights can be cancelled just before they leave.
Went to the service desk and they re-booked us on a flight at 13:15, which was better than I expected. They also gave us 2 breakfast vouchers worth $8 each. Whoopee.
Not a lot we can do, so went through security and sat down for breakfast, we each had 2 McDonalds breakfast muffins each. Last time we had McDonalds was at another airport, Doha 2017.
Settled down for a 4 hour wait - unfortunately they don’t have an open access lounge in the Domestic terminal otherwise we would have sprung for it.
Went for a wander, took about 3 minutes, there’s not a lot at domestic departures. Walked past the busiest place - the bar. People getting on the beers and cocktails at 0900, starting their holiday early.
Read some stuff, watched a TV show, keeping an eye on the departures board. Our flight appeared. Yay! Cancelled. FFS.
Down to the service desk, into a queue of about 10 people. Got to the desk, trying to be polite but was pretty annoyed. She poked on the keyboard, looked at the screen, poked a bit more - “I’ve booked you on the next flight, 06:00 tomorrow morning”. FFS. So we have to be at the airport at 04:00, which means leaving at 03:00, which means getting up at 02:00. Wonderful. She said she could put us up in a hotel, where did we live? Oh, pity you live in Melbourne - if you weren’t in Melbourne, we could put you up. “Did I say Melbourne, I meant Ballarat”.  She booked us into the hotel. I can accept one cancellation, that’s the risk at the moment, but to cancel 2 and leave so many people to have to alter plans is pretty poor.
The queue was now about 200 people long, just as well I went there straight away - I don’t think as many people were watching the board and only realised when it was announced or they got an SMS.
So we were given $20 in lunch vouchers, plus booked into a nearby hotel so we wouldn’t have to get up at 02:00 (04:00 instead). Looked to see if there was a one-way Qantas flight, which there was, but it was $650 ish for the 2 of us. Seriously considered it, thought about it, decided to do it, went back to book and now the price was around $900. Yeah, no.
Called the hotel to tell them we wouldn’t be checking in today, they directed us to hotels.com because that’s who we booked it through, they said they couldn’t do it, so would call the hotel, they couldn’t get through so sent an email. What a pain in the arse. I also had to cancel a restaurant booking.
Went back to the departure lounge to use our vouchers, had 3 banh-mi between us. It was now around 14:30 and I was beginning to feel like the Tom Hanks character in Terminal.
Called the shuttle bus for the hotel, checked in and found out that we also get $60 in restaurant vouchers so booked into the restaurant.
The room was OK, clean and spacious but a bit tired, but probably better than going home and getting up at 02:00.
Moped around for a bit, read and watched a bit of TV, then went to the restaurant and had a passable meal - Song had a seafood risotto-like thing and I had gnocchi with bacon, mushrooms, peas. I also had a Tasmanian beer to remind me that instead of being where we were supposed to be, in a nice seafood restaurant overlooking Hobart harbour, we were in a Motel in Broadmeadows overlooking a carpark.
Went for a walk because we’d been sat down most of the day, then got back to the room and prepared to go to sleep, it was about 08:00 but we’d been up since before 06:00 and were going to be getting a 04:00 alarm call.
This was when we discovered that our room was directly below the function centre where a Christmas party had just started. We may as well have been sleeping on the dance floor. FFS.
Along to reception and told them our sad story, they were very good and moved us to a new room a long way from the function. Opened the room door and…oh. King size bed. Bigger TV. Went in the bathroom…shower, and a spa bath. Yeah, we’re using that, we deserve it.
Sat in the spa, very relaxing and Song said that despite not being in Hobart this is basically what we would have done - meal in a restaurant, go for a walk and if the room had a spa we would have used it.
Went to bed around 21:00, hoping that they wouldn’t cancel the flight for a third time, but the way things are, who knows?